If you are around 1500RPM it will be the ECU turning the injectors off at 1500RPM or above, then it slows under 1500RPM because of the extra drag, then the injectors turn back on and so on.
Regards Philip A
Went to Amamoor (S.E. Qld) last w/end with our club, my stock 96 3.9L V8 managed to go everywhere the Cruisers & Patrols with lifts & muddies went except one climb where the tyres made a difference (mine being Bridgestone Dueller A/T's 235/70/16's) on really dry powdery red soil. I maybe had to do a few attempts(in the mud especially) but I didn't have to get snatched out of anywhere like some others.
I am constantly being surprised at what it can do "as stock" especially with "Low 1st" & can hardly wait till I put a 2" lift & some decent rubber on it
p.s. I was just wondering about using low 1st going down hill, when the slope gets less steep it seems to surge a little bit, just a bit up & back down revs when my foot is off the pedals?? is this normal? as in the transfer box just doing it's thing?
If you are around 1500RPM it will be the ECU turning the injectors off at 1500RPM or above, then it slows under 1500RPM because of the extra drag, then the injectors turn back on and so on.
Regards Philip A
Yep, that's it exactly, thanks for the info![]()
Mine keeps impressing the **** out of me too ran rings around my mates lifted navara with muddys on the weekend dead standard down to the Bridgestone ht tyres
I didnt know the later hotwire did that.
My 93 rangie never did it, but it makes a big difference in the p38.
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Well it should have . The only reason that it would not is if the TPS read over 0.49 volts at idle and /or the VSS ( and consequently the speedo) didn't work.
My 93 rangie never did it
It is pretty subtle in a stock 3.9 auto partly because of the high stall of the TC but it is there.
The effect was amplified on the 92 that I sold because of the unichip and Thor, so much so that the buyer emailed me worried that there was a problem with the car. LOL
Regards Philip A
Just got my new coils today (50mm lift), just got to fit them now. Any hints/tips on how easy this is to do by myself?, have done coils on my old GQ with help before but these seem a tad more complicated.
Easy on the back , harder on the front.
Best is to disconnect sway bars and a spring compressor makes the job much easier.
My procedure was to jack up the car , place axle stands under the flat part of the chassis. Take out front shocks and towers. Jack up the axle then place the spring compressors front and rear of spring, making sure that you will be able to get them out when the spring is longer, then let the axle down until you can reef out the spring. Usually a bit of brute force will be needed. Some people put a jack between the axle and chassis to get the axle lower , but be careful of the brake lines.
The backs usually fall out once the shock is undone and you have undone the lower mounts and dropped the axle as happens on various trips when people put short springs and long shocks on .LOL.
Regards Philip A
Prety much as above and in my opinion easyer then the nissan cause the springs are out bord of the chassis on the rear . The front I un do the shock at the diff and un do the four nuts on the shock tower and pull the whole lot out then just jack chassis up till the springs come out. Dead simple
On the front end undo the sway bar mounts (d bushes) after undoing and removing the shock and tower assembly. Use a bar to lever the diff down a little. Be careful not to over stretch the abs and brake lines.
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