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Thread: Stationary overheating

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Victoria
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    Stationary overheating

    1997 D1 V8 Auto.
    OK, when I'm stationary in >30 degrees, or in stop start traffic she gets uber hot, like you can do a TBone on the bonnet. In that weather if we are hunting down the highway, it's fine. I changed the thermostat to the 88 degrees job, all I saw after that was the temp needle move more in the "normal" range. So from half way to right up to the top of the white !!!


    Should I go water pump first or viscous clutch or radiator (which I think is OK) it's either pump or fan clutch. OR just do both?


    Oil OK, everything else good ....


    Cheers
    10 Toes.

  2. #2
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    Apr 2009
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    Crafers West South Australia
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    Water pumps don't "wear out" in pumping ability unless eroded by very low quality coolant. Your most likely candidate for worn out is the fan clutch as it normally freewheels all the time you are road going. Note however your fan blades should be inspected for cracking around the roots, as a new coupling will push an old fan harder than it's gone for a long time. A bloke came in last week with one blade missing on his RRC after towing on a hot day. You can also purchase a complete fan assembly off an EB-ED V8 Ford as they have the same fan thread but a different bolt spacing for the fan blade attachment.

  3. #3
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    Thanks mate. What's involved in swapping to an EB-ED Fan assembly? Is it a lot of garage re engineering or is it straight forward bolt on please?

  4. #4
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    its the fan, or the radiator

    try holding 1000RPM next time see if that helps
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #5
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    Just ordered a new Viscous fan coupling and water pump ... theres my Saturday or sunday activity sorted. Now to fashion my 36mm spanner with the angle grinder :-)
    I'll let you know how I go.

  6. #6
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    I'd be getting the radiator flushed/rodded and also check the fins aren't blocked with crud/insects/mud, Regards Frank.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Perth
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    Out of curiosity, have you removed the piece of plastic/material that sits beneath the radiator/pulleys? It doesn't look like it does much but removing it/having it fall off totally messes up the air flow and makes your engine overheat. Check it out

  8. #8
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    I have now replaced the thermostat and gasket, water pump (showed signs of corrosion and I feel it was not as good as it could have been. There were signs of shiny face and corroded face of the pump, new pump and gasket. New viscous fan. I've been driving it with the A/C on and it seems fine at the moment, however it hasn't been driven in 37+ degrees yet ... that's the test. I have the plastic shroud and cover fitted correctly. No oil in the coolant. Flushed and brushed the radiator. Fingers crossed ... but thanks for the tips on the way through, a great forum!

  9. #9
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    What brand and where were you able to get your viscous hub from? Mine needs replacing but no one seems to have a listing for one

    Sent from my GT-I9305 using AULRO mobile app

  10. #10
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    Dec 2011
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    Victoria
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    I bought it from rover lord off road spares brand new from eBay. $125 and about $135 for the water pump plus postage (for both) from somewhere in Tassie. The car is fine now, fuel consumption has dropped so it must have been vaporising?? I pulled out the insulator under the bonnet as well as it was tatty and starting to burn and smell like oil. All good again.

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