Fossicker
SupporterGuys,
Just incase it helps somebody i have recently solved some starting issues on my 300tdi.
Firstly - I have recently repaired the spyder unit myself aftyer reading a few of these posts. Honestly the hardest part is removing the console features like the radio. Solder was visibly cracked around the larger terminals and the others looked fine, takes around 10 minutes to repair the solder points.
Secondly - the last weekend i was drove down the street to get the bread and milk, however once back in the car she would just turn over and not start. All up it did it to me a couple of times during the week until she finally wouldn't fire at all. I thought at first it was the fuel solenoid dying. When i tested the voltage at the solenoid all i was getting was 9v where the battery was full charged at around 13.5v. Sprayed the contacts at the solenoid - all ok. Tried to trace the wire to the relay block near the fuse box. Terminals on the relay looked ok but on closer inspection they looked like a contact lube had glazed the contacts (no corrosion just looked like there was a clear coating). Cleaned that up and sprayed with contact cleaner and electralube. Tested again and was receiving 12.5v and could now hear the solenoid operating when i put the lug back on.
So far so good.
Hope this helps somebody as this was luckily easy fixes.
Last edited by sparky_pete; 11th April 2014 at 10:51 AM. Reason: grammar police
Fossicker
SupporterWell I may have been wrong on the solenoid front. Played up last night out of the blue. On further inspection the fuel solenoid isn't fed from the relay that I thought and I don think I have the correct wiring diagram, still an undervoltage problem but am probably going to spend today tracing wires.
Master
Sparky Pete, could I suggest that to prove your fuel solenoid problem you do a simple "hotwire" connection off your battery positive through a simple toggle switch to prove/disprove the problem, and so easy to do.
I had starting problems with my last Tdi 300 and it turned out to be a throttle spindle seal on the top of the Bosch Inj pump, easy to fix but it had me scratching my head for a while.
I tried the "hotwire" because of the sporadic and mysterious nature of the starting failure to see if it made the difference, and lo and behold, it sometimes failed to start even when I knew the fuel solenoid was energised so had to look elsewhere. Gaz
LordRover
SubscriberI have this hotwire setup up semi permanently as i couldnt be bothered pulling the dash apart to get to the spider, now i can take the keys out with engine still running if required.Originally Posted by gazby
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Fossicker
SupporterDoes anyone know if there is a good wiring diagram posted on here anywhere? The one i have is straight out of the Haynes book and isn't flash. I have been trying to trace the wire back properly but not too sure. Does it go back to the spider?
Cheers
Last edited by sparky_pete; 22nd April 2014 at 10:14 AM. Reason: more info
Master
Had a similar problem with my d1 would turn over and not start. In the end it turned out the solenoid power wire had a dodgy connection in the spade terminal replaces it and all has been well for a couple of years now. But it had me scratching my head for a while. For something so simple.
Sent from my HTC_PN071 using AULRO mobile app
ChatterBox
Try swapping the fuse out from the interior fuse box. I had a similar problem years back , seemed the fuse looked all right but in effect it was faulty.
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