Reply With QuoteThe top bellhousing bolts are a pain for access. Remove the engine mounts to drop it down a couple of inches & get at them from under the car with a long 3/8 ext.
Fossicker
Hey all, so after buying a lemon it seems I'm about to undertake my first rover engine swap. Now this is my first land rover engine swap, however I have access to a complete mechanical workshop and two mates that are diesel mechanics who are helping.
I'm just after any advice from all you seasoned vets out there. Tips and tricks that I hope to not be caught out with.
I'm buying a reconditioned motor from all four spares, with all new hoses and gaskets, as well as new water pump, aluminium radiator and fuel pump.
As I said before, any advice will be greatly appreciated.
OldBushie
The top bellhousing bolts are a pain for access. Remove the engine mounts to drop it down a couple of inches & get at them from under the car with a long 3/8 ext.
Scott
AT REST
I took some pics of an engine swap I did in a RRC, shouldn't be loads different to your D1. The more you strip off the old engine in the car the easier it comes out.
Thread linky here.
Fossicker
Thanks guys, helps a lot.
Master
Do NOT forget the spigot bush
Fossicker
So I'm having major troubles trying to fit the new engine back in.
Mainly the fitment of the block to the transmission. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
LordRover
SubscriberAuto or manual ? if its an auto it is very important to make sure that the torque converter is fully seated in the auto before mating to engine.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
LordRover
SupporterAnd if it is a manual, has the clutch friction plate been aligned with an alignment tool before assembly.Originally Posted by loanrangie
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Fossicker
It's auto, I'm having trouble figuring out why it's so hard to turn the motor over via the crank shaft once I have mated the engine and gearbox. Is this normal I have done it twice now to the same results.
AT REST
Did you install the torque converter into the transmission first? Did you double check that the converter is fully engaged onto the front pump? You can use a straight edge and a ruler to measure how far the torque converter is pushed into the bell housing. This measurement MUST be about 3-5mm greater than the distance the drive plate is away from the back of the block. Once the torque converter is fully in THEN you fit the engine and THEN bolt the torque converter to the drive plate. The torque converter should be free to spin in the crank until you install the 4 bolts into the torque converter. If you have forced the engine and box together you have most likely stuffed up either the torque converter or the front pump of the trans. Engine out and check again.
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