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Thread: New radiator or recore ????

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Logan ( Brisbane)
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    New radiator or recore ????

    I have to buy another radiator for the discovery and at this stage tossing up between a new one or a good second hand one or getting mine record a big factor in deciding is the almighty $$$
    Just wondering if any one has used one of these before and could recommend them or not.


    hodgo




    [ame=http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-discovery-2-5-90-110-300TDI-1990-1998-BTP2275-alloy-radiator/161374628801?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkpa rms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3 D20140106155344%26meid%3D5b8dad0dd4f44de6948b06f48 03d7566%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140106155344%26rk %3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D331220151814&rt=nc]Land Rover Defender Discovery 2 5 90 110 300TDI 1990 1998 BTP2275 Alloy Radiator | eBay[/ame]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Kippa Ring
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    If going for a recore, shop around. I recently got a quote for my Disco V8 from a local radiator shop for $465. Not bad but decided to get a second price from elsewhere. He quoted $900 if he could get a core that size.

    Ended up getting a Fenix alloy one for $320 delivered.
    John

    Series 2 LWB - Gone
    Series 3 LWB - Gone
    Series 1 LWB - Gone
    81 RR 2 door - Gone
    95 Disco v8 - The Next Victim

  3. #3
    redrovertdi Guest
    When i enquired about those plastic tank radiators they were to thin- might be fine in Europe but not for over here in my view.
    Richard

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
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    As we have both an engine oil and auto oil cooler in our radiators (assuming you have an auto) be a bit wary of aftermarket ones. They may restrict oil flow dramatically and cause issues with low oil pressure & flow on both sides as often they just throw any old concentric cooler in there that fits if they are building down to a price. It's not like they need to prove compliance to Land Rover's technical specs or anything...

    My 360k+ original factory radiator carked it recently (clagged up and fins starting to rot) and I elected to get it re-cored so that the critical headers and coolers remained factory-spec. Not a cheap option ($660 in Port Pirie, but I was on my way to the Simpson and needed a quick, reliable solution). Aftermarket radiators could be OK, but I have seen a number of references to people having issues with oil pressure after fitting which is a big worry. That could kill your engine or trans or both. Go in with your eyes open and know the risks, is all I am saying.

    For under $600 you can get a NOS factory-original 64mm heavy-duty monster (there's s bloke advertising them on here somewhere...). But all of the factory ones run relatively small core tubes so you need to keep your coolant clean and flushed per the schedule or you risk clogging (like mine did).
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  5. #5
    redrovertdi Guest
    Previously i purchased a heavy duty copper core radiator fom an ebay seller in Australia, mate purchased the same at the same time, with in 6 months they both had pin holed and the radiator shop reckoned they were made in turkey with sub standard copper[dont know how true that is but the pin holing was real in both of them]- we both bit the bullet and purchased from allisport.
    Richard

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