Thread: 300tdi Injectors

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

A lot of wrecks about now that you can pickup spare from for the right price.

Anyway here is some new prices;


Defender 300 TDI Injector Sealing Washers ERR4621 | eBay Price:GBP 1.79 Approximately AU $3.11
Postage: GBP 2.00 (approx. AU $3.47) Standard Int'l Postage

Land Rover Defender 300TDI Diesel Fuel Injector Leak OFF Rail | eBay
Price:GBP 20.00 Approximately AU $34.70
Postage: GBP 8.99 (approx. AU $15.60) Economy Int'l Postage

Land Rover Range Rover 300 TDI NEW Injectors SET OF 4 | eBay
Price:GBP 197.00 Approximately AU $341.81
Postage: GBP 19.50 (approx. AU $33.83) Royal Mail International Standard (Small Packets)

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those injectors you posted are fake chinesee ones. not bosch originals. ive seen them as well and enquired about them. thats why they are cheap. id rather keep the old ones than try my luck on those but i appreciate you taking the time to send this stuff to me.

loanrangie, you can see diesel leaking down the side of the block from the injector. like i said i need to replace the washers to stop them leaking which i will do for sure but i was asking whether worthwhile doing injectors at the same time. really i just wanted to know what difference it makes changing to new nozzles on the ends of the injectors.

Land Rover 300 TDI NEW Injector Nozzles SET OF 4 | eBay

thats just the tips. i was asking if worth changing the tips over. not a hard job. but seems consensus is that they last quite a while so i might just not spend the $ and change the washers only.

thanks

Another cause for leaking past the copper washers is the fact that the injector hold-down studs stretch, so you cannot get the proper torque after tightening them properly a couple of times. They are waisted to prevent over tightening and stripping the thread out of the head, and pull apart in the middle. I have made my own studs from M8 bolts with the heads cut off and thread ends carefully cleaned and chamfered, but you have to be careful with using ordinary studs not to over torque, but they work and fit just fine. I had to do this for one stud originally after an oh **** moment on a Sunday, but since have replaced them all the same way with no issues.

Originally Posted by Spel1

Another cause for leaking past the copper washers is the fact that the injector hold-down studs stretch, so you cannot get the proper torque after tightening them properly a couple of times. They are waisted to prevent over tightening and stripping the thread out of the head, and pull apart in the middle. I have made my own studs from M8 bolts with the heads cut off and thread ends carefully cleaned and chamfered, but you have to be careful with using ordinary studs not to over torque, but they work and fit just fine. I had to do this for one stud originally after an oh **** moment on a Sunday, but since have replaced them all the same way with no issues.

thanks for that. is there any way to know how? seem to be leaking only lately. originally had leak at lift pump, fixed it then it went to the injector pump, fixed that, then it went to the injectors themselves. which is why i was gona change the washers. seems like the easiest thing for now. if it still leaks then ill have a look at your suggestion. i might just clean the injectors when i pull them out and put them back in.

If you dont need to drive the car fow a few days, take your injectors to a diesel specialist and have them checked. They can be recoed. Far cheaper than buying new ones. Or buy secondhand ones out of low km motor.
240k is not alot, Ive pulled injectors out of 400k motors that were running fine! Cheap poor quality diesel will foul them up. I only buy my diesel from where trucks fuel up, stay away from places that do discount dockets.

Sorry to hijack. Bit why are 2 stage injectors not testable?

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Originally Posted by ROAMER_AUS

Sorry to hijack. Bit why are 2 stage injectors not testable?

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all the diesel places i spoke to seem to think they are. they all said free testing. they did tell me that they dont bother reconditioning them though and just replace them with new units.

would still be nice to know if worthwhile buying the nozzles for them and just whacking them on and leaving the old body. unless the springs are stuffed im sure it would help a little. probably not worth the 300 though when cleaning them might do the same.

just out of curiosity, does anyone know at what engine rpm do the injectors switch between the two stages?
I might have a fueling or boost problem around 2200-2500rpm
thanks

Originally Posted by Fausto79

all the diesel places i spoke to seem to think they are. they all said free testing. they did tell me that they dont bother reconditioning them though and just replace them with new units.

would still be nice to know if worthwhile buying the nozzles for them and just whacking them on and leaving the old body. unless the springs are stuffed im sure it would help a little. probably not worth the 300 though when cleaning them might do the same.

Well I can't think of a reason why they can't be tested with manual pop test pump. Hopefully someone can explain.

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