Thread: Window regulator fix

Nice work Pete, I'll be doing that before long to the one back window I daren't open for it falling into the void again. It's OK as long as I leave it alone, but summer's coming.

Can I ask please what was the nylon stock from that you used - was it an existing shim or spacer or did you mill it from scratch?

I like the idea of the through bolt to replace the rivet, but thinking also the OD of the nylon doesn't have to be round, as long as it fits the slide not metal to metal and lubed. I'm sure one of the slides I have seen in the past was like that, maybe why it broke.

Originally Posted by Spel1

Nice work Pete, I'll be doing that before long to the one back window I daren't open for it falling into the void again. It's OK as long as I leave it alone, but summer's coming.

Can I ask please what was the nylon stock from that you used - was it an existing shim or spacer or did you mill it from scratch?

I like the idea of the through bolt to replace the rivet, but thinking also the OD of the nylon doesn't have to be round, as long as it fits the slide not metal to metal and lubed. I'm sure one of the slides I have seen in the past was like that, maybe why it broke.

Hi Spel1, it was milled from scratch, I used 30mm nylon rod which is used to make fittings for water filters. I put the necessary measurements into the milling machine and it spits them out. I made it as a roller as I didn't want to use any lube in an area which is a pain to get at if it ever needed cleaning or lubing again. I figured the roller had lasted some 16 years and never been touched, so why change it. I believe it will see the life of the vehicle out. Having said that, it was the rectangular version I saw on this site that gave me the idea.

DYI Window Regulator Runner Repair with photos

I just destroyed my drivers side regulator on my 'new to me'Discovery, I was silly enough to think it was fit for purpose and wound the window down oooops! Lol
The arms went in three separate directions.
The good thing was I was able to muster enough gusto and pull it up a couple of inches from the top and continue the journey from Perth to Kambalda, the annoyance of the co pilot due to the whistling from the window was apparent (bless her!)
So happy that I have air con, kind of made for a still pleasant journey compared to the Defender (loved that uncomfortable old tractor)
Anyway upon arrival to Kambalda thought I would investigate the issue.
I was expecting the just jumped off the rails or knackered nylon blocks, nope it was like a tinny octopus in there.
I was hoping to fuddle a fix together but alas it was not to be.
Out with some bits of old child's bed (planks) sourced from my step daughters junk pile, no saw I proceeded to implement cutting to size in order to fit the door cavity with use at first a screwdriver and hammer.
As my back is currently buggered due to a work related incident, so the finesse gave way to utilising the big pound hammer on the edge of the slab.
It turned out ok and I travelled back to Perth with the window in situ.
I phoned around at the normal outlets for replacement and got quoted $115 for a presumably Britpart product.
I then phoned Land rover and got quoted $280 (far out man) after I told the bloke I was poor as, he required me $210 (nice GROSS profit) he did say that Land rover would replace and fit a replacement in their workshop for free if it craps itself within a year, how often do they go?
Sounds like it could be worth the extra hundred??
I love Land Rovers :-)

They are not "rocket science" to fix if you are a bit handy with the spanners, if you buy the Land Rover thing you will be paying for a lot of bits that are still ok.
I have two Disco 1's and have only ever had problems with one window in 6 years, Drivers window, and that was a stripped flex section in the little drive motor/gearbox section, that was fixed by moving the motor/gear device from the LH rear door which means there are no wiring mods to do for correct switch operation for RH front.
There is only this problem, Motor/drive, and the roller problem as Pete has outlined that will stop the windows, and maybe electrical switching.
In my opinion the units are grossly overpriced for what they are and I was able to fix the faulty drive with epoxy and get the LH rear going again.
A bit of fiddling but not a big job, and the "free" replacement or repair within 12 months............well you will have already paid for that if you use it or not. Gaz

I think the trick is to realize what's happening then to leave it alone until you are able to have a look at it. I stuffed my front one up by trying to move it up and down when it was (I know now) obviously broken, destroying the arm in the process. As Gazby says, t's certainly cheaper to fix it yourself.

Originally Posted by Petetheprinta

Now there's a thought, could sell them as a kit for D1 and D2, having read various fixes it seems pretty good and works as new. Easy to do as well (if you have a machining centre)

Put me down for a D1 kit, please

Maybe you could turn out a batch of them and work out a price for singles, twos and fours. Could be a bit like the guy that sells the door springs, or the one that has the aluminium horn ring both in the UK - a limited range of product, but very useful to us all interested in a quality fix. The market in general might be a bit big, but, if you were to make just a few I'd like to put an order in please.

Originally Posted by Spel1

Maybe you could turn out a batch of them and work out a price for singles, twos and fours. Could be a bit like the guy that sells the door springs, or the one that has the aluminium horn ring both in the UK - a limited range of product, but very useful to us all interested in a quality fix. The market in general might be a bit big, but, if you were to make just a few I'd like to put an order in please.

I'll have a look at it and work out a cost. I'll work it out on new rollers, nuts and bolts to suit. You will have to organize tapping threads into channels yourselves.