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Geez, take it easy. Not worth killing yourself over the mongrel thing. I know what it is like to want to do things yourself, apart from the cost saving, but at some stage we have to draw the line as we get older. :twobeers:Quote:
Originally Posted by BathurstTom
Gearstick was returning to 1/2 instead of centering at 3/4.
Centre console out to access the top of the gearbox. Expecting a bias spring to be broken but the bias adjusting plate had snapped the bias adjuster completely off.
Will order the part on Monday. $15 part that should be made as a $16 part.
Serviced it on Sunday, and whilst under there when draining oil .. so easy with the quick drain plug! .. got bored and checked a few items.
Rear prop uni joint had about 5mm slack. Time to change. No time on Sunday tho, so had to do three commute trips between then and yesterday.
When removing prop, then became more obvious that rotoflex was also looking a bit sad too. Quite a few cracks.
I already had(pre emptive) unijoints, and I have two spare donuts for just in case purposes, but not the spigots parts.
So did uni and used one of the spare donuts, and now vibrations seem a touch worse .. so when I next have the chance I'll get a new rotoflex and spigotty bits and pieces for it too.
For now, it'll have to do.
I have been thinking about doing the conversion from donut to uni(read others thoughts on each side of the argument), but uni's are such a PITA to replace, by comparison to the donut system .. so donut stays.
Donut did 100K klms, but it looks like chaps I used to get it done didn't do the spigot and bush .. just the rubber.
Been some time, which is a good thing, that I have done any thing mechanical with the Disco. Going away tomorrow till Tuesday. So I got a few minor thing sorted with the old bus. Changed the back brake pads during the week. Today got a new battery as the old one was lacking some what in capacity now. Have had to charge it up a couple of times. Regulator, distributor are doing there job. Have no idea how old the replaced battery was as it came with the Disco. I had awhile ago got a set of oil cooler pipes as I noticed the old ones where weeping a bit. The replacement of these requires the removal of the battery and a sense of humor. So as I knew that battery was at some stage being replaced i waited till that time. So today while the battery was out they where replaced during which I lost my sense of humor some where, got it back later though. Yesterday I noticed the left hand bull bar blinker was kaput. Took the lens of to find the inside a chunk of rust. I had a spare indicator housing from when I was tarting up my previous Disco for sale. So that was a easy enough fix.
Cheers Hall
Car has been going well.
Since return from Anne Beadell trip in 2018 just change of fluids and a ds window regulator.
Occasionally I see a dim alternator light not sure what is going on there.
On the weekend I drained the ds swivel housing as I have been meaning to do this for a while.
Undid the top swivel housing bolts (always fun with that brake line there) to allow it to drain out ( no drain plug what a great idea)....only about 100 ml came out. Was checked within the last year and no visible leaks.
I guess it migrated into the diff?
I put one shot grease in on other side 6 months back due to visible leak.
Anyway no harm done and now has one shot grease in it on both sides so hopefully that will delay the swivel housing refurb for a while.
Nearly time for full service and timing belt.
Very trouble free for a long time now..and done some work in that time.
Has anyone taken the anti tamper cover off the fuel screw..just dremel it off or is there an easier way?
Does seem to be the time for, for now small things, to be a issue with the disco. Geeze the rear mud flaps only lasted 25 years and now needed replacing. Yes they where the original ones. Got home the other day to find the right one hanging by not much. The left looking like it was not much better. Brought a pair of proper replacement ones. Not land rover but the same otherwise. This was a good thing as they just fit with no issues. I had to grind of the heads of the bolts to get the old rubber of. A easy job done.
Cheers Hall
Just replaced a front one..***** of a job..held on by a wierd fasteners that need to be ground off as no hex on bolt head or nut? Really great idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hall
`1Yeah that`s what I had with the back ones on mine. That is why I also ground the head of. Looks like a rivnut that has been screwed onto a dome headed bolt. Have thought of fitting mudflaps to the front. The wheels are flipped Rang rover Vogue. So have a bit more offset this and bigger tyres means the tyres can touch the bottom rear edge of the front guards. Not good for any mudflaps fitted there.Quote:
held on by a wierd fasteners
Cheers Hall
Timing belt had to get done. Kind'a'sort'a ..
Previous one at 70K klms, but did it due to front main seal leaking .. and I didn't want to do it all twice.
So timing belt kit bought, and replaced prematurely.
Hhalf of Saudi's oil stockpile cleaned out of the inner front cover.
(the other half is on my driveway!)
Most tedious part is in getting belt on! [bawl]
This time had the crank holding too, not some badly welded flat bar cobbled on the fly by a hopeless welding type .. that snaps at just below 90Nm of force [bigwhistle]
Took for short drive, gave it a few berries(not too much) but zero oil leaking when home.
The oil leak issue was when revving it out a little, it's stress the seal and leak like mad. Gentle driving(eg. cruising at 90-ish and not revving too far past 2500RPM) no oil leaking.
Ran a few degrees hotter than usual, and mind began thinking about maybe timing out just a smidge, or something.
Then the penny dropped ... I forgot to install the viscous fan .. doh!
FWIW: at 100k/h on the freeway she runs at 83°C without the fan in ambient approx 21°C(night time too) .. normally it'll stay stable at about 79°C with fan on ... other than mid to high 30°C ambients.
Will keep an eye on the harmonic balancer now over the next few thousand klms too .. last time I botched that up badly. It came loose thanks to previously mentioned badly welded flat bar holding thingy that snapped at the torquing stage.
So much easier with the correct tool, and hopefully done right this time.
Not a mechanical fix, but something that I did on my Disco. Last long weekend I traveled on about twenty kilometers of corrugated road. That bad that my old winch hook connector must have fell apart and I lost the hook. I think some of though`s corrugations had switch backs on them being so large. Main problem with the road was it being used by logging trucks. Anyway to day I fitted a new hook with a different method of attachment.
Cheers Hall