What did you do with or to your Disco today

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Originally Posted by AK83

I reckon don't waste your money.

This seems to be about normal. Was this at highway speeds? uphill? flat? downhill.

With a bit of a load, I get approx the same coolant temps. I don't have a RTT, but sometimes I run a flat roof rack. Weird how a slim flat roof rack can make such a difference.

Do you run an EGT gauge? If so, what would be a normal exhaust temp?

Ive set the fuel pin to just give me enough power to feel 'powerful' enough, but not getting too high into the 700s on the exhaust for example on a long uphill climb.

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No, slow B grade bitumen undulating road I expect it would go hotter at highway speeds. That was with air con on so that never helps. I have a tropical grill I will put on soon.

I have an EGT gauge ready to fit - the probe is in and the wires are poking out of the coin tray hole. The pump has been fiddled with and it has an after market boost pin in it so will be interesting to see the temps.

How is the turbo going now? I have a spare manifold looking at me wondering if it will get a new core.

I've fitted a home made 'Saudi' grille to mine. zero difference.

I've seen similar.
On slow winding roads with air on and warm day(35°C plus) I've seen up to 105C on the temp gauge, and turning AC off helps to drop that down to low-mid 90's.

Same day on the highway(on flat) it'll run at the low to mid 90s again, but given any hill is when she goes up into the 100's.

You can get a faster acting Tridon thermostat which helps with cooldown rate .. more so that overall cooling.
Although overall cooling usually runs colder than the usual waxtstat thermostat, I found I prefer the quicker acting Tridon. part number I used was the TT388-180(82 deg version).

IIRC when I tested them side by side, the tridon one not only acted a lot quicker, but when fully open seemed to have a wider aperture than the waxtstat, which looked (to me) like have better flow.

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Originally Posted by AK83

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IIRC when I tested them side by side, the tridon one not only acted a lot quicker, but when fully open seemed to have a wider aperture than the waxtstat, which looked (to me) like have better flow.

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Flow is one thing but if the coolant isn't in the radiator for long enough it can't dissipate the heat to air effectively.

Bit of a balancing act. Don't genuine 399 tai radiators have baffles in the side tanks?

I'm not saying you haven't improved the situation, just that I read about the concept of keeping coolant inside a good radiator for a period of time was just as important as flow, some years ago.

the quick response of that Tridon would be a bonus.

DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Flow is one thing but if the coolant isn't in the radiator for long enough it can't dissipate the heat to air effectively.

Bit of a balancing act. Don't genuine 399 tai radiators have baffles in the side tanks?

I'm not saying you haven't improved the situation, just that I read about the concept of keeping coolant inside a good radiator for a period of time was just as important as flow, some years ago.

the quick response of that Tridon would be a bonus.

DL

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There is a baffle in the LH tank, as both radiator hoses are on the left, the coolant flows left to right in the top of the radiator and right to left across the bottom.

This baffle has a large hole in it allowing some of the coolant to flow straight down the LH tank bypassing the core.

Have search for "tropical mod" for further info.

Mine has been mostly blocked when I had the radiator rodded.

Mines a Defender, but the same.

Tony

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Originally Posted by edddo

Disco got RWC and was registered last week.
Have installed an Engine Guard and noted that yesterday with temp in mid 30's, 4 people on board and RTT freshly mounted, that engine was at or around 92.
Last week unladen in cooler temps it was sitting in mid 80's.
That is all ok but I might just renew the viscous fan coupling so that I know it is fine. Radiator is newish.
I had Truetracs on my previous D1 and they were ok overall (and terrific in some situations) but cross axling was still an issue.
So I plan to put a locker on the rear of this car at some point.
Really looking forward to getting into the hills and rivers of the high country over the rest of summer.

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Hi Eddo,

Congrats on the RWC.

How was the pull to the right resolved?

DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi Eddo,

Congrats on the RWC.

How was the pull to the right resolved?

DL

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Hi DL

Thanks yes it's good to have it on the road - my new daily driver and weekend camper.

The pull to right is not yet resolved. It wasn't deemed to be significant enough to be a RW issue. I haven't had time to work on the car the last several days. I need to remove steering damper and test drive; look closely for any play or mount damage in trailing arm componentry. I also need to look at the drag link and track rod set up as suggested by Workinonit.

I also have a slight shimmy at about 80-90 that I need to diagnose.

But with all that I am enjoying being back in a D1 again. Like pulling on an old pair of boots.

It was only 9 year overdue, but finally done it ... [bigrolf]

Started leaking not long after I got the tdi back in 2016. Only a small 10c spot, then a 20c spot, etc, etc.

I did regularly check level and it had 'enough'. 130+K klms later, still had enough not to cause problems, and oil seemed still clean.
Even tho I had a new yolk to be sure if the old one had too much wear, old one was still fine for it not to wear new seal.

The next job is to replace the vacuum pump. Leaking again. I bodged up the core plugs ages ago with orange sealant and it worked for a while. Maybe 30? 50? k klms ago, so held up ok for a bit.

Interesting development on this issue.
I changed rims/tyres to my old set of Hiline mags with highway bias tread.
Not only is the pull to the right now gone - it now pulls to the left.
But is is much nicer to drive as the pull is very moderate.

Any theories on that?

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Originally Posted by edddo

Hi DL

Thanks yes it's good to have it on the road - my new daily driver and weekend camper.

The pull to right is not yet resolved. It wasn't deemed to be significant enough to be a RW issue. I haven't had time to work on the car the last several days. I need to remove steering damper and test drive; look closely for any play or mount damage in trailing arm componentry. I also need to look at the drag link and track rod set up as suggested by Workinonit.

I also have a slight shimmy at about 80-90 that I need to diagnose.

But with all that I am enjoying being back in a D1 again. Like pulling on an old pair of boots.

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Today I finished fitting the new ( second hand Hybrid) turbo and took it for a drive.
It all went together well and it drives well - perhaps with slightly stronger pull in the mid range in particular.

I also hope that this reduces the oil into the intake system however I think it is mainly blowby from the crank case and I'm starting to suspect the brake vacuum servo after watching a Britannica Restorations video.
The oil seems to originate where the breather hose meets the intake hose.
I wonder if this explains the rapid deterioration of the (crap quality) breather hose that comes out of the rocker cover.
Also noticed that the master cylinder has a slight leak at its base.
Always one more thing....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by edddo

Interesting development on this issue.
I changed rims/tyres to my old set of Hiline mags with highway bias tread.
Not only is the pull to the right now gone - it now pulls to the left.
But is is much nicer to drive as the pull is very moderate.

Any theories on that?

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Can't help on the change of wheel/tyres conspiracy! [biggrin]

BUT!! ... have you fully checked the bearings for even the teeniest bit of slack on the main nut?

I went through all the drama of front end components recently myself. All bushes fine, all nuts and bolts fine.
Only thing I didn't check was wheel bearing play.
And the only reason it occurred to me was that I started the process of stripping to check and maybe tighten/re-shim swivel bearings.
I first removed pass front wheel, then as I was removing drivers wheel, I noticed a half mil of play on the vertical. Hard to check horizontal movement. Thinking .. aha.. has to be swivel bearing play, then it struck me to check the easier stuff first.
Sure enough drivers was quite loose which made sense with the vertical movement. Even tho the pass side didn't have any notable movement, main nut was still a teeny bit loose.

Prior to this, I'd been having a bit of kickback at the stg wheel, but a tail chasing episode with the alignment.

Brother got a Vevor alignment kit thingy with the bars and tape measures. It works ok .. well enough anyhow. He stuffed up his Falcon, and I had to work out how to get it set up right. Got the Falcon running right, so he left the tool with me.
So I had a play on the D1.
Only annoyance with it is that on this specific kit, you have to remove the drive flange nuts to mount it all up due to the spacing of the holes on the two angles.
If you're willing to drill out new/larger slots or holes you could get it to mount to the wheel studs.

Anyhow, having the alignment tool meant that I could adjust to my preference and in my own time(rather than paying for checks).
Took some time, but once the bearings reset, I got the alignment to my liking.