I've had the same thing happen with a viscous with a tech screw through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Car got hot, found the fan and clutch sitting in the shroud.
Tony
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I've had the same thing happen with a viscous with a tech screw through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Car got hot, found the fan and clutch sitting in the shroud.
Tony
I fitted the NEW power steering pump, in place of the one that I rebuilt last week.
The rebuilt one didn't leak fluid, but didn't really pump too well either.
It was so much easier, R&R, the second time around. Lol
klms!
Attachment 186908
Apart from that, nothing much to report ... D1 ownership feels like it's getting 'boring' now [biggrin]
Turbo cartridge replaced yesterday.
Firstly, got myself a induction coil off ebay, as I knew that the 4 bolts holding the cartridge in place and the 3 downpipe nuts would be hard buggers to remove.
Worked well, much better than flame torches, and order of magnitude quicker too. Some spray first, then heat them and they came off very easily.
I wish!
Attachment 192095
How to fit? ... possibly a future compound turbo project. [biggrin]
Attachment 192096 and Attachment 192097
I think this may have been the whining, howling, noise I heard at 12psi that helped me decide it was time to check it. It only just binds, and at pressures lower than 12psi, was fine. Also old one didn't free spool like the new one does.
Attachment 192098and Attachment 192099 = new cartridge fitted.
Also got a cheap locking circlip plier tool off ebay as a trial. Was something like 30-40 'hard to come by' bucks. Up to this job, has been good, ie for light duty jobs, but it struggled to remove the turbo circlip. The nibs twisted under the strain. Could still use it, but had to work it gently to keep it straight. Having the locking feature was important. paid $45 for them. I can't imagine getting job done without.
I actually got them to remove A/C pulley off my Pug, and they worked brilliantly for that(and the D2a), but the heavily rusted in turbo clip stressed them maximally.
Still, for the amount of use I need them for, they did the job fine. Just not recommended for regular use.
Didn't get a photo of the bare cartridge, but this is what I used .... Land Rover 300tdi Enhanced Turbo Billet Hybrid Upgrade Turbocharger CHRA 452055 | eBay
My first turbo fix.
I just got to go back out and adjust the wastegate now! [bawl]
And was the "extra" boost up to expectations - been on my list of would like to do one day for a long time
Good and bad results.
Good, the howling at 12psi has gone, which I expected seeing the marks in the snail from the turbine vanes.
Bad, still struggling to get more than 12-14psi boost. I can't hear the turbine whistle very much either.
My first point of call will be exhaust mufflers. they have got 130K klms under their belt now, so could be a bit blocked.
The other slight notice I've got from new cartridge has been a bit more oopmh at 2000RPM than I was recently used too.
I've generally just sat on 2000rpm when cruising on little used back road(about 93ish klm/h) and one road I'm used too, it'd struggle up a moderate hill and lose 5 or so klm/h, but on the last two runs on this same road, it holds it's 93-ish klm/h more easily.
Turbo cartridge cost 500-ish(from UK), so kind'a had to be done one way or another. Wasn't going to go full cheapo with an 'ebay special' made of Chinesium Cheese.
Not getting much of a chance to drive him much, need to use the TD5 for it's roof rack at the moment.
So may take a few more weeks of stuffing about with exhaust variations and hope that gives it the boost I've been used too.
ps. I've got a GFB electronic controller for boost control. Had it for years now. When originally fitted(and exhaust was only a couple thou ks old too), I set it to max at 21PSI. Hard to set a PSI, it works on duty cycle, so have to change settings with guesses until I find a 'right spot'. If the solenoid dies, it just defaults to std operation. If the power is cut to the solenoid/controller, it sets it back to default running. I've confirmed it's running and working, but still not giving me the boost I've been used too.
The other bonus, which I expected anyhow, so far no oil misting up on the turbo hoses. More importantly no misting up at the unions/junctions of the hoses. The cyclone hose that comes around the back of head, and into the mid section of the airbox to turbo used to get so badly oiled up.
I did a 300klm round trip on Sunday, 100klm round trip on Sat, and so far so good.
Before, just a couple of short(34klms) return trips to/from work, had all the hoses to and from the turbo areas misted up with oily residue ....
Had initial RW inspection about 2 weeks ago on my recently purchased 98 D1 with unknown history.
Failed on:
Rear indicator not working
Pull to right - yes it does, not very badly but it is there
Play in front wheel bearings
unis on front prop shaft
so not bad really.
They missed a few things which I was glad of.
Fixed rear indicator
new uni's fitted
then
had wheel alignment and general alignment check - rear DS wheel 4mm closer to front of car than PS but toe setting ok ( about zero). Maybe DS trailing arm needs spacing rearwards? Trailing arm slightly bent but that does not explain 4mm, only about 0.1-0.2mm.
Tightened wheel bearing on PS - all good.
Went to do same on DS - not good! Very bad old water contamination. Mix of rust, muddy grease and rust grit. Realised I cant drive this car until new WB fitted, and the rears at least inspected.
So the WB is also contributing to the pull to the right.
So I hope that after I replace the DS WB that the pull to right will be gone or reduced. There is certainly a degree of increased rolling resistance compared to the PS based on a simple spin test with hubs out, wheels on and the pull to right seems much more noticable with increased speed.
Also need to replace vacuum pump and sort out a turbo return line (if that is what it is) leak where it fits to the block.
Then there is some rust that will need attention - floor pans, roof above PS doors.
Bit more of a project that I had hoped but will be good when done.
Disco got RWC and was registered last week.
Have installed an Engine Guard and noted that yesterday with temp in mid 30's, 4 people on board and RTT freshly mounted, that engine was at or around 92.
Last week unladen in cooler temps it was sitting in mid 80's.
That is all ok but I might just renew the viscous fan coupling so that I know it is fine. Radiator is newish.
I had Truetracs on my previous D1 and they were ok overall (and terrific in some situations) but cross axling was still an issue.
So I plan to put a locker on the rear of this car at some point.
Really looking forward to getting into the hills and rivers of the high country over the rest of summer.
I reckon don't waste your money.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
This seems to be about normal. Was this at highway speeds? uphill? flat? downhill.
With a bit of a load, I get approx the same coolant temps. I don't have a RTT, but sometimes I run a flat roof rack. Weird how a slim flat roof rack can make such a difference.
Do you run an EGT gauge? If so, what would be a normal exhaust temp?
Ive set the fuel pin to just give me enough power to feel 'powerful' enough, but not getting too high into the 700s on the exhaust for example on a long uphill climb.
