What did you do with or to your Disco today

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Originally Posted by Finnius

but i cant seem to find anywhere that sells Aluminium!

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Bunnings sells sheets of ally c/plate. Well, the one near me does. Haven't checked out the sizes though.

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Originally Posted by doshy

wobbly old blower about to be removed NB: C-clip is a bugger

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Broke my old circlip pliers on that one, so bought these. And then bought the big red ones, which worked!

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Originally Posted by doshy

All done. has made the old girl a much more driveable beast. the deadly off idle nothingness is completely gone. it drives like a modern vehicle. Haven't had a big run yet but seems much improved. installed a boost gauge at the same time. Seems to boost to 13 psi atm. Will turn it up slightly I think to about 15psi. That will probably be enough for this old beast.

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Makes a difference, doesn't it? I've had other fish to fry, so haven't played much yet, but the difference the turbo made just putting it in was worth it.

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Originally Posted by Redfoxie

what's Step 1?... "Disconnect the neg battery terminal"!!!
Always catches you out when you let your guard down!

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Learnt that one the hard way. Welded a spanner to my wristwatch, which in turn welded all the links in the watch band. Thought I was going to ringbark my arm.

So, Step 2 is?... remove all jewellery and watches. Saw a bloke jump of the back of a MkIII in the army. Left his ring finger behind when his wedding ring caught on one of the canopy supports. Ouch.

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Originally Posted by Fausto79

thanks for that. i admit it's something i did not know and didn't do. i usually left it unlocked until hard bits came up and went to low locked, always wondered what high locked was for.

on the weekend at wellington though, had the diff locked in high the whole time in there. was mostly gravel tracks but some muddy sections and steep rutted tracks (which i went to low locked for). not sure why i changed my method. i think because i wasn't on sand like i usually am. i have to remember next time i go beach driving to lock it as well as soon as i come off the tarmac.

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Going to keep posting this until everyone has seen it....: ( Start at about 1:10 )

https://youtu.be/vFHCYuPTbfg't=1m11s

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Originally Posted by Xtreme

The unknown factor here is what happened to the temp at other points of the engine where your sensor wasn't mounted?

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Might have a go at looking at that with the IR temp gun.

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Originally Posted by trout1105

Personally I wouldn't tinker with the original setup [thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]

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:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

Not a true Land Rover mechanic then. [biggrin]

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Originally Posted by johntins

Going to keep posting this until everyone has seen it....: ( Start at about 1:10 )

https://youtu.be/vFHCYuPTbfg't=1m11s

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when i said beach driving by the way i meant the tracks that get me to the beach. i never drive on the beach itself without being in locked low. but the limestone tracks that get you there are usually fairly easy and i used to always keep it as is. but will lock into high as soon as i hit them next time.

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Originally Posted by doshy

OK so I'm a bit of an idiot..... basically i thought the head on my 97 disco had been leaking oil for about the last 18 months.

So I had the opportunity to borrow a car for a while and though I'll get a new head gasket on.

Once the manifolds were off and I could see what was going on I realized that 2 of the 3 rocked cover bolts were just sitting there... hence oil leak...DOH!!

Anyway had it apart and thought bugger-it. Purchased a hybrid turbo cartridge from the UK to see if it would make any difference to the 20yr old 300km disco.


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Pre-removal

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adjusted clearances whilst I was here.

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as you can see I like to work organized


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new rocker cover gasket installed

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wobbly old blower about to be removed NB: C-clip is a bugger


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other bits getting cleaned
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got exhaust manifold resurfaced as cylinder 3 had been blowing out a bit

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new cartridge with the 11 fin billet wheel

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reassembly. had to lengthen the WG actuator by 7 turns??

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All done. has made the old girl a much more driveable beast. the deadly off idle nothingness is completely gone. it drives like a modern vehicle. Haven't had a big run yet but seems much improved. installed a boost gauge at the same time. Seems to boost to 13 psi atm. Will turn it up slightly I think to about 15psi. That will probably be enough for this old beast.

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Very nice - how is it going now?
What was the cost? I also have a D1 with about 300k on it and that looks like a very neat way to improve reliability by renewing a component and improving performance at the same time.

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Originally Posted by edddo

That was my working assumption as well. That is why I am surprised at the lower temperature with top part of cowling removed.

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That’s because the air was no longer being directed across the sensor on the engine...

That portion of your bonnet etc though, would have been warmer!

Bee Utey said "Exposing the tips of the blades of your fan allows it to fling air off radially rather than towards the engine block that's in the way. Another successful trick is to trim the fan shroud lower down so more of the blade tip is exposed. 25mm off with the tin snips helps quite a bit. I've used this technique on a wide variety of engines with success"

Tombie said: "That’s because the air was no longer being directed across the sensor on the engine...That portion of your bonnet etc though, would have been warmer! "

So one theory is that the air coming through the radiator now has an easier path away from the radiator so the the air flow through is improved therefore it cools more efficiently.
The next theory is that it is just the sensor that is cooler as there is less hot air being directed to it and that the motor is actually no more or less hot.

I wonder how much the air temp effects these thermal sensors - ie if it is on a 85 deg surface and the air temp around it is 60 vs 65..how much would the reading change?