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Gents,
Looks like I've got a leaking thermostat housing gasket where it bolts to the head. What's the easiest way to replace this? Looking at access to the bottom 2 bolts seem to be not possible without removing a fair bit of other bits, so I was wondering who might have done it recently and offer some advice??
rob
Just had a quick sqizz to see how easy/hard it's going to be.
Looking at the images of the housing, it has open ended bottom bolt holes.
So that all you need to do is loosen the two bottom bolts(not fully remove them) and once the two top bolts are removed, the housing and gasket slide up and out from resting on the two bottom bolts.
Hope that makes sense.
Never done it, and I can't imagine how you'd apply any sealant to the gasket/head/housing faces if you're that way inclined too.
Sorry can't be of more help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Yeah, cheers for that.... I knew about the slotted bottom holes but its more about access to the bolt heads to loosen them that I believe is more the problem. Can't really see any other way but remove some bits to enable me to put a spanner on the bottom bolts.....
Rebuilt auto and got it going again.... only took about 18 hours, so not done in one day [bigsmile1]
Also got a body lift for Christmas...
Order some poly flares for it soon as I finish looking for for wheels, can’t work out correct backspace
Did an experiment inspired by AK83's recent posts re cowling removal and how it effects running temps.
I have a TM4 sensor on the front area of the head.
Half way through a 4 hour highway run on Xmas eve I took off the top of the radiator cowling - the bit that hides the top of the fan.
I was surprised to see that my temp gauge promptly dropped from an avg of 85ish to 82ish. Ambient temp was about 34 and rising from that point.
I also noted that when temp comes up a few degrees on an extended climb that it comes down more quickly.
I am thinking that the top of the cowling is mainly there for safety reasons rather than cooling/airflow efficiency.
I assume that removing it changes and improves the under bonnet air flow dynamics ie that air is now more free to escape from the radiator into and away from the engine bay.
Exposing the tips of the blades of your fan allows it to fling air off radially rather than towards the engine block that's in the way. Another successful trick is to trim the fan shroud lower down so more of the blade tip is exposed. 25mm off with the tin snips helps quite a bit. I've used this technique on a wide variety of engines with success.Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
The cowling is designed so that the outside air is drawn evenly across the entire surface area of the radiator and that air is then directed over the engine, Even on a 50C day the air is significantly cooler than the coolant and the metal of the engine.
Changing or removing the cowling will alter the airflow and will most likely make it less efficient, Also cutting chunks out of the fan has the potential to weaken it or put it out of balance and if this happens it will most likely self destruct.
Personally I wouldn't tinker with the original setup [thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]
That was my working assumption as well. That is why I am surprised at the lower temperature with top part of cowling removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105
The unknown factor here is what happened to the temp at other points of the engine where your sensor wasn't mounted?Quote:
Originally Posted by edddo
I'd like to meet him.....[bigwhistle]Quote:
Originally Posted by Hall