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Thread: What did you do with or to your Disco today

  1. #981
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Bundaberg Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hall View Post
    Nice feeling isn`t . Have just recently done the same thing, only two weeks ago for me. Yours looks a nice clean bus for its age. I`m still getting to know mine as I am still discovering things.
    Cheers Hall
    It is amazingly clean. No rust in footwells, alpine windows, windscreen area, anywhere actually. It has sequential LPG injection, new tyres and battery, Long Ranger tank, even still has both remotes that work. It has a bit over 230Kms and the back seat and belts look like they have never been used. It also came with a folder full of records and receipts including the original delivery docket dated April 1999.

    Very happy camper to say the least.

  2. #982
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    Sep 2015
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    In the shed or 1000km from home
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    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    Does that gear stick look extended or is it just an illusion?

  3. #983
    Auspest Guest

    HSE P38 Leather seats in my Green Toad!

    So I am doing up a 1997 D1 300tdi (happily nicknamed the Green Toad) and decided the seats were too dirty to clean. Using info on this site I found some Range Rover P38 HSE leather seats and fitted them. All electrics except seat heaters and the memory function on the drivers seat work fine! So much more comfortable than the originals.

    If only I could work out how to add a pic.......

  4. #984
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Perth, WA
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    My D1 drivers seat diaghram just went for the second time (unfortunately replaced first one with a second hand one and that too split a month later) and damn, if that P38 seat doesn't sound like a great idea!

  5. #985
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    Apr 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by cripesamighty View Post
    My D1 drivers seat diaghram just went for the second time (unfortunately replaced first one with a second hand one and that too split a month later) and damn, if that P38 seat doesn't sound like a great idea!
    Mine went last Thursday.
    I remember it well too. I was driving dad to the docs. Sitting at a set of lights, I felt this strange sensation that I've accidentally hit the pneumatic switch on the truck seat to lower it down .. except I'm in my D1!!
    Just went down slowly like it deflated, then after a few seconds, it felt like I was sitting in a 'bucket' seat.

    I bought a rubber replacement about 18 months ago(cost a small fortune too, for a flat piece of rubber), and it's a well known aftermarket brand with the additional hooks for the front and rear support bars(ie. not just the side hooks).
    Had to drill right through the frame on the front and rear lateral supports to connect the additional hooks, about 1/2hrs work all up .. posterior is properly positioned and propped now.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #986
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    Jun 2013
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    Warner Area - SEQ
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Mine went last Thursday.
    I remember it well too. I was driving dad to the docs. Sitting at a set of lights, I felt this strange sensation that I've accidentally hit the pneumatic switch on the truck seat to lower it down .. except I'm in my D1!!
    Just went down slowly like it deflated, then after a few seconds, it felt like I was sitting in a 'bucket' seat.

    I bought a rubber replacement about 18 months ago(cost a small fortune too, for a flat piece of rubber), and it's a well known aftermarket brand with the additional hooks for the front and rear support bars(ie. not just the side hooks).
    Had to drill right through the frame on the front and rear lateral supports to connect the additional hooks, about 1/2hrs work all up .. posterior is properly positioned and propped now.
    Had this happen to mine and didn't know that it was a common issue.... At the time I looked under the passengers seat and saw what the previous owner did to it so I did the same..... I just cut up one of the foam squares pieces that u buy from the camping store that u use for your camp shower floor and cut it to size, then just found one of my old rachet tie-down straps and used that under the seat, chris-crossing from one side to the other and then tied it off..... Worked a treat. I'm now actually slightly higher than previously....

  7. #987
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    Jun 2013
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    Question

    Just throwing this out there......

    Has any Disco-1 owner swapped their 1.2 ratio Transfer Case over to a Defender 1.4 ratio Transfer Case at all? With running the larger 235/85 tyres, I would have thought this would be a good solution to bring back to almost standard gearing?

  8. #988
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    Just throwing this out there......

    Has any Disco-1 owner swapped their 1.2 ratio Transfer Case over to a Defender 1.4 ratio Transfer Case at all? With running the larger 235/85 tyres, I would have thought this would be a good solution to bring back to almost standard gearing?
    I've read some folks done/doing that setup(can't remember if it were here or on other sites tho).

    But I see the downside to doing it this way would be that you'd raise the low ratio gearing by the amount of percentage difference that the 235/85's have over the std Disco tyres(I think usually 235/70's)

    So a 'better' mod in an overall sense would be to change diff CW&P.. both to a stronger type, and lower ratio to whatever gives you the equal percentage difference between the tyres.
    I have a vague recollection that something like 4.11:1 over 3.54:1 .. or something like that.

    Ashcrofts have various options to suit(or close too) balance the differences. About 200 GBP per diff.

    The advantage with the CWP change is you maintain low ratio gearing, and the diffs are strengthened.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  9. #989
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    Jun 2013
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    yeah, I understand the difference with LowRange but that hasn't been a problem when 4wdriving but I'm looking for some benefit for normal driving around town etc. I normally run 235/85's and even though it goes ok, I've managed to get some standard size tyres to test out and I can really notice the difference. The off the mark is greatly improved, so it got me thinking about the 1.4 defender TC's and from working out the ratios, if I was to run 235/85 tyres with the Defender TC(1.4 ratio) I would be back to standard gearing or actually about 5% under.
    If I was doing 100kms/hr with standard gearing (1.2 TC) & standard tyres (235/70), at the same RPM, I would be doing 95kms/hr with Defender TC (1.4) and taller tyres (235/85).... if that makes sense.....




    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I've read some folks done/doing that setup(can't remember if it were here or on other sites tho).

    But I see the downside to doing it this way would be that you'd raise the low ratio gearing by the amount of percentage difference that the 235/85's have over the std Disco tyres(I think usually 235/70's)

    So a 'better' mod in an overall sense would be to change diff CW&P.. both to a stronger type, and lower ratio to whatever gives you the equal percentage difference between the tyres.
    I have a vague recollection that something like 4.11:1 over 3.54:1 .. or something like that.

    Ashcrofts have various options to suit(or close too) balance the differences. About 200 GBP per diff.

    The advantage with the CWP change is you maintain low ratio gearing, and the diffs are strengthened.

  10. #990
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    Apr 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robmacca View Post
    yeah, I understand the difference with LowRange but that hasn't been a problem when 4wdriving ....
    I'm assuming that your's is manual then?
    Auto(like I have) is great in low range off-roading, easier to manoeuvre in over rocky crags, and stuff like that, but not as good on steep downslopes!

    Steepest downhill I've done so far, had the Tdi top out at about 3500RPM, so I'm working on the principle that being the engine's earliest RPM point where compression is greater than gravity pulling the vehicle downhill any faster.
    (obviously the torque converter is the major culprit, but leaving this out of the equation for now).

    I'm thinking of it from my situation having an auto and having the above problem on downhills .. taller gearing, even if it's only a little bit more, like a 255/70 tyre upgrade to 235/85 .. I'd lose just enough low ratio gearing in the auto to make enough of a difference(at 3500RPM).
    May sound pedantic, but going by the Ashcroft calculator, in my case with 255/70's I'd be travelling at about 14-15k/h on a very steep decline, whereas on 235/85's will give more like 18-19k/h.
    While that 4(or so)k/h may sound trivial, I prefer it to be working for me, rather than against me .. downhill or uphill!

    The above will be less of a problem in a manual .. but then again manuals have their own issues to deal with too.

    According to the Ashcroft calculator:

    with D1 1.211 ratio gears, and 29"(235/70's) you get 2379 RPM at 100k/h in high range
    with the Defener 1.4 ratios gears and 30.7(235/85's) you get 2616 RPM at 100k/h.

    If you went with their 3.75: diff ratio instead(of the TC ratio change), on 235/85's at 100k/h you'd see 2380 RPM at 100k/h(ie. the same as the std 235/70 gearing in high range).

    Obviously the diff ratio change will cost more than a simple TC high ratio change too.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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