Thread: Steering Pulling To The Left

Panhard rod bushes maybe. What you might be experiencing is worn bushes reacting to the camber in the road.

Open the drivers window and rock the steering wheel from side to side and look at the top of the guard and see if there is any movement side to side relative to the wheel.
Better if you can get someone else to do this while getting underneath and checking for movement

Tyre pressures correct?
Is it pulling, as in changing lanes when you release the steering wheel, or is the steering wheel just off centre? If it's pulling then 90‰ will be the tyres conicity. Swap the front tyres to confirm, leaving the rears alone. All tyres are conical, ie inner diameter not identical to outer. Nothing is perfect. From the factory you get a measured and matched set so the forces oppose and cancel out. Aftermarket needs trial and error, although you might get lucky if your tyre dealer has a Hunter wheel balancer with road force measurement and can again give you a matching set.

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Thanks guys!

I have replaced the rear Pan Hard bushes. That's what I call tramp Rods? Maybe the front ones are iffy????

It is pulling to the lft not the wheel is off centre. I will change the tyres out tomorrow and see if that makes a difference.
thanks for your help. Sometimes I get too close to a problem to see the overall view.

Swivel preloads also have a bearing on steering wanders, i would check the components in this order -

Panhard bushes, radius arm bushes, hub bearing preload ,swivel preload.
Then rear balljoint, A frame upper bushes, lower trailing arm bushes top and bottom.
Also could be a sticking brake caliper, remove pads and clean with brake cleaner.

OK, Here is the go....

I measured the Rear Left Wheel from the corner of the door. (The Metal Edge) and the exact same on the rear Right Wheel.

The right rear wheel is 10mm further back compared to the left rear wheel which, would explain why it is pulling to the left.
The rear axle is out by 10mm and veering to the right and that would explain why I have to pull the steering wheel to the right to keep it straight as the front veers to the left. It's Crabbing!

The car has a straight chassis and has never had a stack. It is purely that the axle is set off on an angle instead of sitting straight.
Now, I've done up those panhard rods as tight as can be using a pneumatic rattle gun.
The only question I have is "couldit be that the panhard rods are made for Left and Right and maybe I've got them mixed up when I put the new rubbers and bushes in??" I doubt it.
Any ideas?????

The arms you are talking about are the Trailing Arms. The Panhard Rod is the one at the front that goes from the chassis down to the axle housing to prevent sideways movement.

Trailing arms are the same for both sides. Maybe you haven't got them seated correctly in the chassis mounts.

I wouldn't take measurements from the body, take them from reference points on the chassis.

Originally Posted by Peppercorn

OK, Here is the go....

I measured the Rear Left Wheel from the corner of the door. (The Metal Edge) and the exact same on the rear Right Wheel.

The right rear wheel is 10mm further back compared to the left rear wheel which, would explain why it is pulling to the left.
The rear axle is out by 10mm and veering to the right and that would explain why I have to pull the steering wheel to the right to keep it straight as the front veers to the left. It's Crabbing!

The car has a straight chassis and has never had a stack. It is purely that the axle is set off on an angle instead of sitting straight.
Now, I've done up those panhard rods as tight as can be using a pneumatic rattle gun.
The only question I have is "couldit be that the panhard rods are made for Left and Right and maybe I've got them mixed up when I put the new rubbers and bushes in??" I doubt it.
Any ideas?????

Fork out for a pair of adjustable rear trailing arms and adjust them to suit (straight), only front wheel alignment on LR solid front live axle is Toe in or Toe out, takes 10 minutes tops and shouldn't cost more than $50, Regards Frank.

I would still swap the tyres. A car can crab pretty far without pulling, usually the steering wheel will go off centre and find it's new neutral position. I'm guessing 10mm longitudinal would equal 5 or 10 degrees max at the steering wheel??

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