Reply With QuoteThe transfer case and the gearbox each have their own seal. If either leaks the oil runs out of the gap at the bottom of the junction of the two cases. If you have them apart I suggest you replace both.
Wizard
Just wondering if there was a single double sided seal between the gearbox and transfer case. when i got quoted to do a clutch change the guy said whilst they have those two out they usually change the seal between them as they are known to leak.
I did some reasearch and found that they have seals that say rear of gearbox or other seals that say front of tcase. would this be the same seal?
Transfer Case Front or Rear Output Seal LandRover Defender Discovery Range Rover
that one says transfer front or rear seal
Rear Output Gearbox Seal Range Rover Classic Land Rover
and this one says gearbox rear.
would that mean that the gear box has a seal at the rear and then the tcase has another at the front where the two meet?
if so, is it the transfer one which is known for leaks or both? just wondering as when i do the clutch i am going to pull all the units away as suggested and thought i would change the seals if they needed doing. there is clutch fluid and oil that come out of the bell housing but i think thats the rear main and slave. the oil in the drive units is still at a proper level. i changed all oils about 6 months ago.
thanks
AT REST
The transfer case and the gearbox each have their own seal. If either leaks the oil runs out of the gap at the bottom of the junction of the two cases. If you have them apart I suggest you replace both.
Wizard
awesome thanks
Master
Do the seals.
Just recently had the transfer case out to replace the intermediate shaft "O" rings, did it myself, no help, no hoist, just a trolley jack, pretty easy I'd have to say.
There were no oil leaks at either the gearbox output shaft or the transfer input shaft seals but while the unit was out it was worth doing the whole job rather than waiting for the old seals to leak.
I recommend, also, if you can get it done while the g'box/transfer case are out, at the same time do the intermediate shaft "O" rings, this is a very common leakage point and is very easy to fix while the units are separated provided the case is not flogged out bad in the shaft bore. Seals were $9.00 each, "O" rings $1.50 each, the time to do the job will probably cost you though, unless you're doing it yourself. Gaz
Wizard
probably do the whole lot myself, are the inter shaft o rings hard to do?Originally Posted by gazby
Just recently had the transfer case out to replace the intermediate shaft "O" rings, did it myself, no help, no hoist, just a trolley jack, pretty easy I'd have to say.
There were no oil leaks at either the gearbox output shaft or the transfer input shaft seals but while the unit was out it was worth doing the whole job rather than waiting for the old seals to leak.
I recommend, also, if you can get it done while the g'box/transfer case are out, at the same time do the intermediate shaft "O" rings, this is a very common leakage point and is very easy to fix while the units are separated provided the case is not flogged out bad in the shaft bore. Seals were $9.00 each, "O" rings $1.50 each, the time to do the job will probably cost you though, unless you're doing it yourself. Gaz
Fossicker
The shaft o-rings are pretty simple to do but you have to be careful to not 'shave' them when tapping the shaft back in - I lube them up with vaseline to help them slip back in.
The hard part is replacing the gearbox output seal, it's located around a interference fit 'land' which is pressed onto the output shaft - normally you should renew this if you are doing the seal - it's a bugger to get off if you don't have a gear puller!
I've seen some people fit a new seal over the top of the land by using a sheet of rolled up plastic to slide the seal over the top (it can get caught on groove on the land otherwise), again vaseline it up to help it slip over.
Wizard
yea i read on another thread that one good way of doing that is to put a rubber oring with grease over it in the lip to make the seal go over the top and then you removed the o-ring. i still dont have a mental image in my head of what it looks like but once i pull it apart i think it will come to me and ill be able to get the right size o-ring.
AT RESTWarning don't buy generic seals either, lots on offer, or you'll be doing it again later
Fossicker
It's this bit clamped in the gear puller:
This is what's left when it's pulled off (that's had the seal removed already):
Picture of it on Ashcroft's site:
Ashcroft Transmissions
Master
If the seal sleeve surfaces are not excessively worn where the seal runs there is no real mileage in replacing the sleeve. To fit the new seal over the original sleeve in place without damaging the seal surface you can use the plastic sheet method, (already mentioned), you could also use a piece of brass or steel shim stock, say .0015" thick wrapped around the shaft, or more simply as I did just a full turn of insulation tape to cover the groove, carefully slip the lubricated seal up the shaft while slightly rotating over over the taped area.
To fit the intermediate shaft "O" rings you need only lubricate them with the same oil as the transfer will be running, (ep gear oil), and put the shaft in to the bores with a short sharp bump, after carefully threading the shaft back through the casing and intermediate gear bearing bore, the shaft ends where the rings fit are two different diameters, I used a nylon faced "dead blow" hammer to do the final move into the casing bores, one hit.
The seals I bought were purchased from a Jag/Rover/Triumph parts specialist I always buy parts from and not generic, I would not risk that either. Gaz
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