Thread: Hard starting D1 3.9 V8 Dual fuel

Ive also noticed that the aluminum block gets quite hot... is that normal?
I might see if I can get the block 5-10mm off the body to create an air flow gap around it to help dissipate the heat that BIM generates.

PS - Couldn't find a 2 core red & black electrical cable so used an old bed lamp cable found on hard rubbish day... thats why its brown & blue and..errr... not standard

cheers
freddagg22

Well...that link was a dud ...too old probably

Anyway googled the OMVL R90e setup and found a reasonably good manual however no active links for a more detailed " how to...".
Several tries later and I think I have it

My OMVL R90e converter setup
1. Top bypass register adjust screw all the way in (finger tight) and use white marker to show start/finish point
2. Lower idle adjust screw all the way in, use white maker to show start/finish point. Unwind (anti-clockwise) out 6 turns. This should allow a "high" idle
3. When engine is at temp, wind idle adjust screw "in" (clockwise) until near or at stall point
4. Unwind (anti-clockwise) bypass adjust in 1/4 turn increments until idle is smooth

Tweaks
Very small fine tuning adjustments to both LPG converter screws
Engine idle fine tuning

Result(s):
- Nice stable idle @700 RPM
- When running "in gear" under 1500 RPM minor "chugging" - I think an engine timing tune will fix this
- good steady power delivery all the way through the rev range
- starting is much easier however crank and fire time still a little long for my liking so hopefully this is an engine timing issue

To do:
Engine tune to 10-12 degrees BTDC...?
Petrol tune up

That's for looking lads
Cheers
Freddagg22