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Thread: LT230 Dilemma

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    LT230 Dilemma

    Hi,
    as some of you already know i have been doing some work to the clutch, rear main and gearboxes. one thing which was suggested to me was doing all the seals on the tcase and r380 whilst they are out. which i did. including the orings on the intermediate shaft.

    that is where my problem comes in. originally i read a few bits of info where they said to count the number of times it takes to unthread after you marked the original position. then i read on my d1 workshop manual to tighten to 75nm. so after i washed the case and got ready to do the orings the mark had come off and wasnt too worried.

    i then put the tab nut back on but only tightened it up to 25nm because i read the manual wrong (25 refers to the nut which holds the plate not the tab nut which hold the actual intermediate shaft).

    i stuffed the tab bit and butchered it and so had to replace the nut. i had my mate help me after nagging him for a while so i put the boxes together and now they are in my car. i thought seeing as the nut is easy to get to, ill deal with it once the box is in so i can utilise my mate's time well.

    now, today it came to the changing of the stuffed tab nut and i looked at the discoweb online manual and it was a totally different explanation. they say the tab nut has to be tightened very slowly until the right pre-load is achieved on the inter gears as there is a crush washer.

    this has been causing me much anguish. i thought i was on the home stretch of this very long job and now this bombshell. i believe it was only lt230T boxes where this applies to. i have a 1996 d1. would this likely have the later 230T box? also, if i just tighten it to the 75nm that the workshop manual says will it be too risky as the crush washer wont give the right pre-load on bearings?

    i really dont want to pull it apart again. i almost felt like breaking down before when it dawned on me. is there any suggestion you guys can give me? should i worry about it so much or should it be ok? maybe a bit less torque? a bit more? i still have a fair bit of room so i can get cover off where the gears are and the crush washer. is it possible to change this stuff whilst the box is in the car, possibly slide it back a bit to get room on the shaft on the opposite side?

    id rather not have to though. if you think it's ok to just torque it up and fire and forget.

    thanks. gona be a long night i think.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Don't stress too much. The correct way to do the intermediate shaft is with a new crush tube and tighten to achieve preload /torque , but....
    many many boxes are refitted without replacing the crush tube, especially after changing the o rings.
    Your D1 will have an LT230T.
    Roughly...if it is tight using the torque available from the standard 1/2 inch or 3/8 drive ratchet handle (no big breaker bar) and you have around 1 to 1.5 threads showing, you will be fine.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    if you're really worrid about it ( and generally I woulnt be )

    check the oil, see if its making swarf, rop the sump plate and check the gearset for movement along the shaft and the wear pattern on the gear set. if thats all good then you dont have to worry about it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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