replace it.
as an experiment, keep it put it in a loosely wrapped plastic bag in a bucket and then put it up near the roof of your shed or in the roof of the house until after xmas. pull it out and check out whats happened to the rubber.
so this weekend i'll be redoing past attempts
namely the p-gasket and the front crank seal, which are both leaking.
my question relates to the timing belt, which I only put on there about 5000k or less ago, which is obviously covered in oil, do I ditch it? or can I get away with cleaning it ?
replace it.
as an experiment, keep it put it in a loosely wrapped plastic bag in a bucket and then put it up near the roof of your shed or in the roof of the house until after xmas. pull it out and check out whats happened to the rubber.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Ditch it.
I have a new belt and seals here in the shed if you need them.
Also have the crank locking tool , timing pins and special torque wrench.
If you can make it to logan on sunday I can give you a hand to sort it out.
Cheers,
Tony
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
When you go back in to do the crank seal, have a look at the O ring behind the pulley. If it got damaged during install, the leak will come from between the pulley and the crank. When I did my first one, the previous installer look like he had pushed the O ring over the woodruff key, and it rubbed against the edges, which had cut it very slightly, then it failed.
Also, with the P gasket, drain the block a bit (bolt on left side of block under exhaust manifold) so the level is below the pump opening so its completely dry when you install. I eventully got my pump housing shave a couple of thou at a machine shop, kept leaking due to some slightly deeper channels caused by leaks which couldn't be blocked long term by sealant.
cheers chaps, I ordered a belt.
thanks for the offer tony, i'm pretty time strapped as it is, and my wife will cut my nuts off if I spend more time than I intended and less with my kids. I have the tools too. Got the p-gasket so i'll get to that and Also have a new turboto fit, so i'll be busy.
Take up Jboots offer to give you a hand...
I rate his work.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
this is what i was presented with, thus far
the o-ring seemed fine?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...nNBa1hnRjZQSjQ
pics didnt load... (assuming there were ment to be some)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
sorry having some real trouble with embedding images today
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5t...hnRjZQSjQ/view
![]()
the first picture cam out Ok for me. thanks simmo
simmo
95 300Tdi Defender wagon
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