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Thread: New Cylinder Head

  1. #111
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    Looking good. Ive never taken the radiator out of mine....that intercooler is teeny.

  2. #112
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    there i was thinking i was being good leaving all the bits off the head until it was on the block. looked at workshop manual now and says to put the number 1 glow plug in i need to removed aircon compressor off housing. what a pain in the.

    should i coat the thread of the plugs in copper grease?

  3. #113
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    I put as much as possible on the head before I dropped it in ......hate trying to fit stuff in tight places. I didn't use any copper grease, my injectors came out very easily so I didn't see the point. If you drown the engine in water a lot it might be the go. I did not tighten up one of the injectors quite enough and it chuffed when first started....I was being ultra careful with the threads in the new head.

  4. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by theNEWT View Post
    I put as much as possible on the head before I dropped it in ......hate trying to fit stuff in tight places. I didn't use any copper grease, my injectors came out very easily so I didn't see the point. If you drown the engine in water a lot it might be the go. I did not tighten up one of the injectors quite enough and it chuffed when first started....I was being ultra careful with the threads in the new head.
    injectors are all in, they are not a problem, im talking about the glow plugs. they seem to be a bit harder to fit when the head is in.

  5. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fausto79 View Post
    injectors are all in, they are not a problem, im talking about the glow plugs. they seem to be a bit harder to fit when the head is in.

    Oh yeah...Ive heard of copper grease for the injectors... What does it do, make it easier for removal? My glow plugs went in and out very easily, not sure under which conditions grease is required.

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by theNEWT View Post
    Oh yeah...Ive heard of copper grease for the injectors... What does it do, make it easier for removal? My glow plugs went in and out very easily, not sure under which conditions grease is required.
    manual says to coat threads in suitable antiseize with minimum working temp of 1000C. i think the copper grease i have goes to 1043C.

    didnt use anything for the injectors. put them in dry. used a bit of stuff on the nuts that go onto the clamping studs. they have copper washers to seal.

    the grease stops them seizing into the head. 2 of my old ones wont budge. there's a few threads about people getting them stuck due to water ingress and they rust in there or from having them exposed too long before installation etc.

  7. #117
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    Yes ...I can imagine water getting in may cause issues. I might do mine down the track if the thing survives long enough to earn a good greasing. Maybe I should use a manual..LOL.

  8. #118
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    nickle or silver antisieze is best, coppercoat will do.

    dont forget before you put the manifold gasket in to at least consider slicing the gasket into sections so that you dont have issues with it warping between the manifolds.

    copper coat all of your exhaust flange bolts. but not the exhuast stuts on the block.

    do use the copper nuts if you have them or copper coat on the nuts for the exhaust.

    my usual routine is to wind in the studs and lock them down then spray them with copper coat, let that setup and then install the manifold.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    nickle or silver antisieze is best, coppercoat will do.

    dont forget before you put the manifold gasket in to at least consider slicing the gasket into sections so that you dont have issues with it warping between the manifolds.

    copper coat all of your exhaust flange bolts. but not the exhuast stuts on the block.

    do use the copper nuts if you have them or copper coat on the nuts for the exhaust.

    my usual routine is to wind in the studs and lock them down then spray them with copper coat, let that setup and then install the manifold.
    yea i put all the studs in already. was going to copper grease the bit sticking out but i have nylon nuts so dont think necessary. i will keep the nylons just for now to get me running south on the weekend and order some proper nuts when i get back.

    do you mean cut it up into 3 sections?

  10. #120
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    I cut them in 5 pieces when I cut them up.

    exhaust, inlet exhaust inlet exhuast but you can do it as 3

    ehaust+ inlet, xhaust, inlet+ exhuast.

    if you choose not to cut it always work from the center out for tightening and inside out to loosen up


    the copper coat isnt for the holding of the nuts its to make it easier to get them off, the nylocs going to be essentially useless as a fixing aid after about the first spirited run you have where the exhaust goes over 300ish.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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