Thread: New Cylinder Head

Would it get hot that quickly though? Literally was on for 2-3 minutes and the gauge said was normal operating temperature. The head felt hot.

When i first started filling it from the expansion tank it didn't drain out as quick as usual. The blue silicone hoses had to be cut a bit to fit but the one coming out bottom of radiator going up to water pump has a slight kink because it's not a perfect kink, but don't see how this would cause head to heat up. Even if thermostat is closed it should still not heat up this quick? It's like theres no flow in the head even though both heater pipes are hot

with no coolant flow through the block, the head only half full youve got all the heat of the exhaust and combustion to heat it up, the heads ally so its going to show the heat quickly.

What filling method did you use?

I removed expansion tank lid and the two brass bungs. Filled the tank first and put bung in, then added coolant to the theromstat bung until it came up in the expansion tank to the correct level...then replaced expansion tank lid. Then added more to the thermostat bung until it was full and didn't go down anymore....replaced bung.

My problem was no hole in the thermostat so I still had air in the upper hose. I have now fixed this by drilling a small hole in the top outer of the thermostat....thanks to Dave's advice. The system ran at correct temp but I kept getting low water alarms until the thermostat opened.

i used the workshop manual method at first but then the expansion tank on mie always fills before it shows coolant come up at the thermo housing.

so i got a coke bottle and put it in exp tank as per Dave's step guide and as was already mostly full found equilibrium almost right away. few bubbles came out.

the one thing that worried me is that there was tiny air bubbles coming up into the inverted bottle almost like sparkling water but nowhere near as many just a faint stream of them.

i hooked my my ems and plugged it to temp sender on the head. just from idle the car comes to op temp fairly quick on the car temp gauge but the ems was showing the head at 60C when i was idling. dunno if im getting a false reading.

the othe rthing is that the sender in my head is a 150C one and on the EMS menu you can only set coolant temp range to 120C. i purposely put the sender in the head at 150C thinking that the head temp will always be about 10C higher than thermo housing so i would wnat a slighlty bigger range option. so not sure if this is causing false reading on the ems.

it sure warms up very quickly but i was idling and the temp didnt raise anymore. i switched it off for lunch, will go and idel it and see if its get hotter. but after 4-5mins of runnng the head is very hot to touch. is this normal? it is afterall 39C here today as well.

i had to cancel my trip to margaret river and ive let down my wife (even though she says its ok) and guests. im quite devastated after the amount of detail i went into.

other thing to note is that expansion tank is full to the brim. ive also filled up the thermo bung to the top. there is a good 12L roughly of coolant in there now. if i drop the expansion tank level then the themro bung goes down too and the ES alarm goes off

Originally Posted by Fausto79

the one thing that worried me is that there was tiny air bubbles coming up into the inverted bottle almost like sparkling water but nowhere near as many just a faint stream of them.

thats symptomatic of the thermostat not opening and restricted coolant flow while the system is still trying to bleed up.

check the condition of the t piece/vactuator valve on the small hoses that run from the radiator the thermostat housing to the expansion tank.

if you have stirred up junk in the block an no heater core this is usually the first gathering point of any junk that begins to circulate.
with the coke bottle in place and filled again remove the bung in the top of the thermostat housing and then squeeze fill the cooling system via the coke bottle in the expansion tank. Make sure you push down hard on the bottle so it seals up the expansion tank to keep the fluid level about right in the tank, start the engine, let it get up to temp and see what the fluid is doing in the housing an measure it with a thermometer.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

thats symptomatic of the thermostat not opening and restricted coolant flow while the system is still trying to bleed up.

check the condition of the t piece/vactuator valve on the small hoses that run from the radiator the thermostat housing to the expansion tank.

if you have stirred up junk in the block an no heater core this is usually the first gathering point of any junk that begins to circulate.
with the coke bottle in place and filled again remove the bung in the top of the thermostat housing and then squeeze fill the cooling system via the coke bottle in the expansion tank. Make sure you push down hard on the bottle so it seals up the expansion tank to keep the fluid level about right in the tank, start the engine, let it get up to temp and see what the fluid is doing in the housing an measure it with a thermometer.

i have brand new one of this vactuator and attached pipes, genuine landrover as recommended by you. the thermostat is a waxstat 88C one, i didnt test it before i put it in but i had another thermostat in the housing i bought which when tested this morning opened up roughly at 94C but could be slight inaccuracies in the thermometer i was using etc. the thermostat housing spits out the water when im running the engine.

is the vacutator installed the right way around?

if you get it the wrong way around it will transfer from the radiator to the thermostat housing as opposed to into the header tank.