Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: need help

  1. #1
    falcoonman Guest

    need help

    hey guys need HELP.
    96 3.9 v8 disco.

    history: nought it for parts for my 94 disco turned out to be heaps better condition, now ive put it on the road im having teething problems.

    it started with it runnning warm but temp guage said it was fine after a while of driving if i turned it off it wouldnt start again for about half hr....i,e until wot eva over heated cooled down. found (i know i should have noticed ALOT sooner) belt was on incorectly which made water pump turn backwards obviously breaking it, the fan clutch and radiator in process. they are now all replaced with either new or parts from my 94. thought that it would be over but no now it runs like a dog. has bugger all power and now after driving for a while has completee loss of power.. wen i put my foot down it splutters and coughs like it about to stall. wen it does this if i turn off and rerstart it will drive fine for a few min and then do it again only worse. if i turn of again it wont start for a while like there no battery no clicks wont wind over second it cools down goes fine again but gutless.

    its not the fuel pump or relays, coil is a few mnths old but i wasnt the one who bought or installed. its beating me

    any ides wot it is

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    11
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Talking Hi there I have a couple of sujestions

    Hello Tim Here

    Where to start.
    Well I have a 1982 3.5 petrol V8 Range Rover and a 1993 3.5 Petrol Discovery.

    First things I would recommend you check B4 spending money. LOL Land Rovers and $$$ its not true.

    Remove and clean and re-gap all your spark plugs.
    I will bet that they may need a clean and gap.
    Remove your distributor cap and look at the inside of it for white Powdery buildup, sand this powder of with very small piece of sand paper or the tip of a Ladies Nail file. No Joke I do this.

    Have a look at your air filter / replace Fuel filter if it is old.

    If this does not make a difference Ping me a PM and I shall reply within a couple of hours during the morning. :-)


    Run some Petrol / Injector cleaner through your tank.


    Please let me know how you go.

    PPS has it been timed lately?? :-)

    cheers

    Tim AKA / Gadgets

  3. #3
    falcoonman Guest
    spoke to land rover just told wot i already thought only problem is i cant find it.
    they think crank angle sensor, ive thought it myself but cant find it. any ideas where it is. and pls dont say either the front or back of engine lol.

    dizzy cap is new as is plugs

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,347
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The D1 has a distributor so I don't think you're going to find a crank angle sensor any time soon.

    The ignition module is the most common part to fail if you think the problem is heat/heatsoak related.
    Scott

  5. #5
    falcoonman Guest
    i swapped the ecu out and it mad no differnce

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    11
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Talking Hello oil

    Did you swap out the ECU or the Ignition Module on the distributor??
    I have a similar problem and believe it may be the Distributor Pickup as I have replaced the Ignition Module and the Coil, testing the negative side of the coil with test light to earth shows my ignition module is not pulsing and it should be It is just giving me a constant light while the engine is being turned over by my partner.

    Hope we can both sort out our issues :-)

    cheers.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The d1 from 94 on is very susceptible to overheating and intermittent loss of voltage at the fuel pump plug ontop of the pump unit under the floor in the loadspace. When it is running royghly have you tested the fuel pressure? 35psi is ok. 25 and lower is not. There is a Schrader valve on the drivers side of the fuel rail to connect the guage to.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    23
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Normally it's all just a process of elimination - do the basics and work your way up to the more complex. Two good "checklists" to work your way through are here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...-not-idle.html and here Rover 14CUX Hot Wire Mass Flow EFI: Service and Troubleshooting

    I have to say though that the running hot problem makes me think that you should try a compression test fairly soon and eliminate any head damage.

    Paul

    1998 D1 V8i
    2003 D2 V8i S

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Kingsley, Perth
    Posts
    1,045
    Total Downloaded
    0
    use the KISS technique.

    Keep
    It
    Simple
    Stupid

    basically as the Equaliser mentioned, start simple work up to complex.

  10. #10
    falcoonman Guest
    ignition replaced made no difference, fuel is good, today i put new plugs and leads in found that the plugs the auto elec put in were wrong, still not happy with it tommorrow im putting the old dizzy cap in and c how it goes

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!