Thats a weird one , jack up both wheels and see if you can hold the prop shaft and then try turning each wheel in turn.
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Thats a weird one , jack up both wheels and see if you can hold the prop shaft and then try turning each wheel in turn.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
Thanks for the help mate, much appreciated :)
I put her into Hi range, handbrake off, got missus to engage it in "D" with foot on brake....Can confirm that front shaft is merrily spinning while back shaft is as still as a mouse. I expect that this is not normal :)
So diff or half shaft??...mmmm..How do I figure that out??
Right!...Thats to the wonders of modern technology (the inter-webs!!), I think am getting this sussed in my own mind!
1. The issue is in the front part of the drive as the front shaft is spinning.
2. Tomorrow, if I jack up the front with the difflock engaged and "drive" selected, the buggered half shaft would be the one that I can spin by hand (??) and the one that doesnt is the good one.
Does this sound right??
Now, can I also safely assume that the TC is actually okay now, given that when in locked position it actually drives well????
the Tcase is fine most likely youve done the left hand half shaft or CV.
the only way to tell without full dismemberment is by advanced observation of the way the front diff is operating.
I usuusally drain the diff oil and then pop an endoscope into the fill hole to observe the actions of the diff gears with the propshaft and one wheel held stationary.
the side that turns the gears is in 90% of the cases the one that has not had the failure, the side that doesnt turn the center gears but makes noised
they can fail in such a way as to permit some drive in some direction some of the time.
Thanks Dave, this is reassuring :)
Also justifies my suspicions after playing around today!
I can likely do a half shaft myself...wasnt sure about the TC!!!
I will jack the front up tomorrow and see which wheel spins with the difflock engaged!
betcha both wheels or neither wheel will turn. (they do in most cases) the only certain way is by observation inside the diff housing.
it just means the break is either too clean and all the torque is going out the break or it means the break isnt clean enough and just enough torque is getting through to make the wheels turn.
you might get lucky and be able to position the diff such that while illuminating the diff from the drain or filler hole you can see through the filler or drain hole and get an eye on either of the side gears, either of the cross pin gears and then you'll be able to do the same test. Im just lazy and have the camera on a probe for just this.
Yeah the probe sounds good ;)
Our visiting gastro surg up here has a colonscopy scope....I could borrow that :)
Will try the wheel turning thing tomorrow by hand and also drain the diff...maybe a few bits of mangled metal may come out!
Appreciate your help!
On a good note, did fix the pass. door that wouldnt open at all and did fix the barn door that wouldnt open from outside :)
So what is likely to be broken? The shaft or the diff?