My thoughts are that a knock caused by retarded timing would be an ignition noise and not come from the injection pump , the only noise from that area would be because of a damaged shaft or other fault with the pump.
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My thoughts are that a knock caused by retarded timing would be an ignition noise and not come from the injection pump , the only noise from that area would be because of a damaged shaft or other fault with the pump.
Did you end up checking the lift pump? Just had a quick back read but could have missed it. The IP will tick/knock if it is having to draw fuel in when the lift pump is not working
Yes they can be retarded slightly and run somewhat normal but be down on power and not rev freely.
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no have not checked lift pump. it is fairly new. what i take one end off and prime it by hand? it seems very quiet when running and the screwdriver trick doesnt sound like anything malignent.
the sound gets louder as the car warms up and speeds up with engine revs but does not get louder with engine revs.
unless the rocker assembly slightly bent or some damage there im not sure. it kinda sounds close to IP.
also when i put my foot on clutch you can hear a knock. not sure if same sound resonating though or different thing. be nice to be over east where theres way more LR specialists than over here.
i will check timing on IP as dave specified this saturday. this will only confirm IP timing though wont it? not cam timing?
PS why is my signature looking like this? do you guys see it all broken up too with font names?
Rockers could have sustained some damage from being run with the loose bolts. But i would expect a fair racket if so.
Havnt read Daves instructions you are referring to, If you dont remove the timing cover then you are only able to check the IP timing.
It is worthwhile checking after a run in period, sometimes they stretch.
Cant help you much with the clutch sounds.
I dont see signature blocks at all on the app so cant help there either
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what are you referring to here? the belt?Quote:
Originally Posted by SSmith
Yes the belt. If the installation is not absolutely perfect things will move. If over tensioned the belts stretch a littlle
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ok. well i had it done by well known LR specialist here. so assume it was done right. they put all the new pulleys n stuff in too and put recon IP at same time. only reason i think it may have slipped is because of wrong doing on my behalf. possibly turning the engine in the wrong direction whilst working on it. otherwise i wouldnt be worried as turning the right way shouldnt slip anything. does this apply to 300tdi?
Ok, finally hooked up my boost gauge properly. Took it for test drive. Didn't get to go up any significant hill as perth has none. But had it on 2500-3000 as states in manual on avg hill in 3rd and was getting 12psi at gauge. This is measured from manifold so is 2-3psi lower than at turbo i believe?
So am getting just under 1bar which is pretty spot on, so i can say the gauge is working fairly accurately but most importantly can count out anything boost related with my performance issues.
Mounted pod on dash. Looks pretty good. Once its all complete ill post pics on the what did you do today thread.
You havent mentioned if your Disco has just started this struggle to 3000rpm or if its always been like this, or in fact if you have owned it long and if its your first 300tdi Disco...
There really isnt much that stops a 300tdi, but there are a few things that will make it a tad laggier (its a polite word to use when describing the power of a 300tdi) than normal.
*The timing belt can be out a tooth (through incorrect installation), it will run fine(ish) but will lack power.
*The fuel lift pump can be faulty, the 300tdi will still start, run but again lack power.
*Change out the fuel filter if it hasnt been done recently, a filter thats been on there for a long long time can leak a bit of air from the seal between the filter and head assembly, but generally though this shows as a bit harder to start.
*A blow turbo intercooler hose (the first two, one off the turbo and the next one in line between the intercooler pipe and the intercooler).
*An intercooler full of oil, remove inspect and clean as required.
*Poorly adjusted tappets (but now we are getting picky unless they are very badly adjusted).
*A 300tdi in factory standard setup isnt the most power house to begin with, long term owners know when overtaking they can turn the a/c button off and get that bit more to complete the task.
*If the fuel injector pump is still in its factory setting (pretty rare to find) A correctly adjusted/tweaked injector pump will make a world of difference to a 300tdi performance.
3000rpm on a 300tdi disco is that sweet gear change point and they comfortably do it.
Regards
Daz