Thread: TDI - Buy Auto or Manual?

I have 2 TDI300 autos, one with 260kms and the other with 470. If the box is serviced regularly and correctly, I think they are fine. With that in mind there is a thread on here about a tired auto in a Tdi.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...nd-300tdi.html

See if you can get a drive of an auto, I think you will like them.

The Auto is so much better off the mark than a manual,esp. on steep loose soil hills,
Regards Frank.

The auto is point and shoot for off-roading. It's a pretty good gearbox and easy to work on. Major issue is it is end of life from ZF so getting hard to get parts if you do need to work on it.

Thanks. Surprised, Didn't think the TDI would be well suited to an auto. And a good box to boot.

I know the tdi manual set up very well but on test drive / inspection what should I look out for on the auto?

Did the auto come with cruise control as standard?

If the box

-has nice clean shifts ( not spongy or clunky)
-changes from first to reverse and back without a clunk
-changes well and consistently either hot or cold
-Locks into overdrive 4th at about 75 and engine rpm is at about 2200 for 100kph.
-has clean oil on the dip stick
-a documented service history
-does not have a history of towing vans or large campers long distances

then it will probably be ok regardless of km.
But..I would be a bit hesitant if it had much more than 350 on an original box if you were going to keep it indefinitely.

Originally Posted by edddo

If the box

-has nice clean shifts ( not spongy or clunky)
-changes from first to reverse and back without a clunk
-changes well and consistently either hot or cold
-Locks into overdrive 4th at about 75 and engine rpm is at about 2200 for 100kph.
-has clean oil on the dip stick
-a documented service history
-does not have a history of towing vans or large campers long distances

then it will probably be ok regardless of km.
But..I would be a bit hesitant if it had much more than 350 on an original box if you were going to keep it indefinitely.

My auto trans has over 500,000klms, is showing some signs of wear, but I use it mostly as a professional recovery vehicle and it gets a flogging, a manual box and clutch could not handle what I use my auto for.
Clunking from 1st. to reverse is due to out of adjustment of kickdown cable and slack in T/C and diffs, if it changes down with a clunk as well check the position of the kickdown cable on the Injector pump throttle arm and adjust accordingly, regular oil and filter changes makes a world of difference, if you're towing definitely go the Auto, I've seen manual box Discos that Have to use low range just to get moving off the mark on Bitumen roads, good luck, Regards Frank.

Kickdown cam does not touch the kickdown valve actuator until 20%+ throttle. Clunk 1st to reverse indicates wear in the output splines, t-case and beyond. Clunk (or click) acceleration to deceleration (from the front) indicates wear in the input splines and/or tc output (latter more likely). Problems are fairly obvious. Hesitation with shifting indicates wear in the valve block (easy fix) or possibly governor (harder). No drive or substantial slip in specific (or any gears) indicates worn clutches (box rebuild). Hunting or bad shift points indicates gunk in the governor. Make sure it locks up @ 80.
Damien

Thanks for the tips. I'm chancing it, got a 1994 auto, ~250k clocked and some encouraging service history.

It locks by 85kph and around 2500rpm at 100kph.

Seems slow to accelerate and revs it's arse getting through the gears to lock, but it appears to be an unmolested bog standard TDI so I suppose it gets to 85 in respectable time for an old donk.

Remarkably no rust to be found apart from some surface marks here and there. Minor dent in wing, a few loose dash mounts adds vibration noise but all round it looks strong for the age.

I just hope the g-box holds it together for a while yet. Test drove up Arthur's Seat today. Went up pretty comfortably, so that's a good start.