Some rust converter and then some fibre glass would be a cheap easy fix. If you cant fibre glass there are plenty of tutorials on youtube.
Large Size Fibreglass Repair KIT With Compression Roller | eBay
Dave
Disco came with a snorkel to fit so got to it and found the first bit of rust that I can't ignore.
Removed the wing to inspect properly and it has rust through down along the seam where it meets bulkhead. Knowing how badly these old discos can rust I was expecting to find a horror show. I shouldn't have removed the wing to look but it turns out its not too bad.
Such is my attitude towards this bargain bucket of a disco I was hoping to spray it with some paint/corrosion inhibitor and be done with it. However there are holes that go through to the passenger foot well and dust and water getting in that way is not acceptable.
I do not weld, or have the space/time to learn right now. This is not a car I will spend money on for fun and not one I want to give much of my time to.
So with that in mind, any ideas to simply stop rust progressing and seal the holes to stop dust/water getting into cabin?
Some rust converter and then some fibre glass would be a cheap easy fix. If you cant fibre glass there are plenty of tutorials on youtube.
Large Size Fibreglass Repair KIT With Compression Roller | eBay
Dave
That area is a structural part of the body, if you don't intend having a crash or a claim on insurance, fibre glass will be ok, have you checked the other side, Regards frank.
I gotta replace the radio antenna so there's an excuse to look at the other wing too.
Not too worried about insurance loss as its not worth much. In a crash it's got extra crumple/crumble zones, bonus . Structural integrity is important tho....
Reading up I think fibreglass will not hold together for long should body flex offroad.
So I'm thinking of cutting some galv sheet sections and riveting them on over sealant. Should seal well and hold firm. Will add some structural rigidity where lost and easy to remove if anyone ever went back for a weld repair.
Will grind down, rust convert and prime to halt the rot before I decide, but in my mind that seems to be best option so far.
Got a few minutes with it today. Wire brushed the loose rust and hit it with some rust converter. Checked the footwell and was relieved to find it in solid form.
Looks like if may have been given some attention in past, bit of surface rust starting so will sand paper, zinc spray and dinitrol.
There are some rubber grommet drain holes which must have helped handle the ingress, is that standard?
Check the body mount just inboard from the rusty vertical row of holes
I'm a bit with frank that looks pretty terminal cancer in the a pillar ...
With that much cancer in that area I would be checking all the body mounts
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Body to chassis mount? Underside of the car is rust free, all body mounts that can be eyeballed under there are good.
Overall its in good shape, but this wing has let the team down caused by a small break in the seam seal right at the top where it picks up water off the bottom of windscreen. The moisture worked it's way down along the join and the wings metal corroded away from the A pillar.
Will give the A pillar a more thorough inspection on the dash side but from what I have seen its solid.
Where the dead wing wraps under the floorpan, essentially base of the firewall is a body mount... it is made of folded tin foil and I would be surprised if it is in good condition with so much corrosion nearby????
Its is a bit of a struggle to weld in material to fix it but can be done with body on....
Steve
ex D1 owner who gave up fixing rusty dying body mounts from corrugations so I bought a defender...
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks