Assuming that all the wires are still connected and working, you alternator is probably stuffed. It shouldn't be too hard to find a second hand one to replace it.
 Alternator doesn't charge, no tach after shorting it - but it's not the obvious fuses
 Alternator doesn't charge, no tach after shorting it - but it's not the obvious fuses
		So... I was rushing a job and should have known better. I didn't disconnect the battery first. * consider me chastised *
I bridged (shorted) out the alternator main lug to the engine for an instant whilst spinning a spanner. Nice fat spark resulted. But now I don't have a tacho and it's not charging (no charge indicator light on dash either).
All fuses in the main under-dash cluster check out, as do the ones behind the battery in the engine bay. So there goes the easy fix
Additional info. The alternator is a Magnetti Marelli A127i 120A (ie. P38 unit).
Question for the forum is whether I should pull the alternator and look for a fried rectifier or regulator or other internal issue.... or... is there something I've missed in the vehicle before I do that? Thanks in advance.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
Assuming that all the wires are still connected and working, you alternator is probably stuffed. It shouldn't be too hard to find a second hand one to replace it.
Could be diodes, rectifier, both or more. BU's idea is probably easiest and go find a second hand unit.
I bet you never do that again...
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
BIt of a lesson learned there...
If the consensus is that it is the alternator, then I might as well pull it and have a look. Its not an old unit and you can get spares cheap enough. Not a DD so it can sit for a week or two...
Thanks for the responses
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						With the engine not running, check to see if the alternator B+ terminal has power because if there's a fuse at the battery where the alternator lead attaches, it may have blown. Shorting the terminal with the engine not running can't damage alternator diodes directly. Note that running starter motors drawing 400A doesn't damage alternators and you wont have caused a 400A current draw with some arcing from your spanner.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
As Graeme says.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
The wire from the B+ to battery is OK. The main 100A fuse is also perfect, as is all others (including fuse #14).
The alternator looks OK internally (ie. nothing obvious) and the regulator/rectifier doesn't look fried (not that it means much with solid state electronics). I replaced the reg/rec only a few weeks ago, so it's as new (notwithstanding I may have internally cooked it).
I'll reiterate that the charge warning (battery icon) light does not illuminate at all now, and hasn't since I shorted it. I know that'll stop the alternator charging, but will it also stop the tacho from reading and/or any other effects? If so then maybe I just need a bulb (yay- minimal $$$$). If not, then it's rebuild or replace the alternator (boo-hiss
- much more $$$$$).
I'm temporarily caught without RAVE hence asking silly questions that could be easily looked up otherwise. Lesson learned #2 is keep a copy on a thumb-drive for portability.
Thoughts?
Last edited by DiscoClax; 29th April 2017 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Fixed typo
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
 Another update - not the globe/bulb
 Another update - not the globe/bulb
		I just grounded out the WL (brown/yellow) wire and the warning light on the dash lights up. So it's definitely not the globe. And that means the alternator is the issue... I should have known BeeUtey was going to nail it first time...
I'm tempted to get a replacement voltage reg for around $45 and drop that in first. No tacho and no charging - both driven off that module (and that module directly shorted). Gotta be worth a shot.... right? And the alternator was a new genuine unit that has only done 15-20k and is in excellent condition.... apart from not working.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
Worth a shot if it's not that old. Diodes could also be toast.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Voltage regulator ordered.. so we'll see. For well under $50 it's a risk I'll take. I'm thinking (*cough* hoping) it's a lot less likely the diodes are toasted than the regulator module, but if they are I'll have a good new, spare voltage reg for the next alternator
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
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