Thread: 300Tdi should i buy?

Yikes. That's not good. I will leave the plastic lines as they are. But i need to carry spares - so i will have to see if Auto1 has a couple of meters of it.

Also, How do you 300Tdi guys slide the transmission back to do a clutch job?
I will be pulling the transfer case to do some seals, then when the tranny is lighter, pull it back to replace the clutch.
I dont have a vehicle hoist and will be doing it whilst the vehicle is on the ground using workshop trolley jacks. But my trolley jacks don't really go high enough to lift up the tranny to slide it back and rest it on the crossmember...

The last clutch job i did, i already had the engine out so that made it easy peezy.

For easy and safe access, cut four 100mm thick wood blocks for one under each wheel, with wedges nailed on to stop the vehicle rolling away without a hand brake. Then you can lift any wheel to rotate it for drive shaft nuts removal. Make an extension for your trolley jack lifting point to reach the gear box. It can be lowered in stages with enough wood blocks.

Thanks 'bee utey', the clutch job is a good excuse to by a new workshop jack as I need a new one anyway...

How reliable are the Bosch injector pumps on the 300tdi? With my V8 i take lots of spares including a spare fuel pump when i travel across Australia with fuel pressure and a spark chances are it will run.

But i am worried that with a Tdi, if the injector pump fails i wouldn't be able to fix it and would be stuck!
When the pumps die is it sudden? What goes wrong with them?

Any preventative maintenance that can be done on them?

I haven't pulled on of the pumps apart so don't know what there is inside of them to break/wear out...? When replacing the solenoid on one, can i look inside and see the condition of anything?

Does anyone carry a spare injector pump when they travel!?

Thanks

The pumps seem to be very reliable mechanically, however, they are prone to leaking through seals - the seals between the low and high pressure side and around the throttle arm - you can change them yourself with a bit of fiddling, plenty of articles around that show how, viton rubber rings where required.

It's bit hit and miss as to whether you will get leaks and despite any leaks the pump will continue to supply the engine no problems. I've had new ones that leak from the get go, Harking back to the old D1, it is the original and not leaking. To see if it is leaking run your hand underneath the unit and if you come up with clearish fluid then likely leaking, but check the nearby lift pump in case it is really the source of the leak.

Not really something I carry as a travelling spare. Not overly expensive to buy a new unit. If swapping it out there is a special tool (made my own) that will hold the drive cog in place such that you do not have to go through the timing belt case to do the swap. I believe at one stage there was a change in the bracket that holds the injector to the engine block (along with changes to the pullies inside the timing case), because pump misalignment was thought to be contributing to the timing belt coming off - not sure if the new bracket was effective and not sure if it was a common problem if you pesisted with the old bracket.

I recall I think Blacknight mentioning there is a hard faced component in the pump, that if the hard facing eventually wears you will find metal contamination in the pump, definitely total rebuilt or new pump.

If your vehicle started first time, then you did some work near the pump, and now vehicle turns but wont fire up, check you have not accidentally dislodged the fuel cut off solenoid wire at the rear of the pump, if so just push it back on.

I doubt they will die suddently, just go senile over time.

I've had water from my fuel tank travel right through the entire injection system up to the injectors themselves. A matter of clearing water from the tank, empty rear and engine bay filters, disconnect injector feed lines, cranking the vehicle over till fuel is again flowing, with a cloth dab out any water still sitting in the heads of the injectors, reconnect and fire up. Very different outcome to the modern run of diesels.

Leaks are the main bug bare of the D1 - they're not going to kill the vehicle if topped up - just a pain registration wise - LRover should have sought international dispensation for leaks come rego time!

Jolly good answer. Thanks

I will be replacing the fuel cut-off solenoid just as preventative maintenance, as the old one looks pretty poor on the outside.
Any tricks to installing the solenoid. I think it is just screw in right - although there is a lot of thread left sticking out...

Sorry, never had to do it.

Originally Posted by Finnius

There is a few generic branded pumps around. Hope they are ok quality?

Is RTV accepted as ok to use for the rear main seal instead of the gasket?

anything britpart stay away from. bearmach generally ok. OEM could be anything nowdays.

i used rtv blue instead of the gasket when i did my rear main. it was recommended this way by a landrover expert. there are t seals as well whilst you are there. i think you need sump off to replace them. again, got told that new seals and a bit of rtv blue is the way to go.

i did not to the t seals on mine when i did clutch. just changed the rear main housing and instead of gasket, used fair amount of rtv. touch wood but hasn't leaked a drop in the few years since.