Thread: 300Tdi should i buy?

Since 300tdis virtually self-bleed, what procedure are you using to "bleed" the system ?

In many many years of ownership I have never had occasion to bleed any of ours even after changing the lift pump or filter.

If this one really does need bleeding I assume air is getting into the system somewhere and fuel is leaking out - so check all unions, the lift pump, and see if there are any fuel deposits around the injection pump and sedimenter ?

Many, if not most, 300tdis have done more than 300kkm trouble-free by this time

As with any motor car the things that could possibly be wrong may be simple or complicated, so as they say - "caveat emptor"

Thanks 87County.

I haven't tried to bleed it - It's just what the bloke is telling me.

As they are meant to self bleed - i guess it could be a fuel delivery problem more than an air block.
Maybe the lift pump is buggered. I presume there is diaphragms that can fail in those?

So there is no electric fuel pump on a 300Tdi? Just the mechanical lift pump which i read somewhere runs off a cam on something like the camshaft?

Diesel injector pumps are the reason i own/work on petrol vehicles!

Originally Posted by Finnius

Thanks 87County.

I haven't tried to bleed it - It's just what the bloke is telling me.

As they are meant to self bleed - i guess it could be a fuel delivery problem more than an air block.
Maybe the lift pump is buggered. I presume there is diaphragms that can fail in those?

So there is no electric fuel pump on a 300Tdi? Just the mechanical lift pump which i read somewhere runs off a cam on something like the camshaft?

Diesel injector pumps are the reason i own/work on petrol vehicles!

It is probably a lot simpler to replace the whole lift pump - diaphragms are not worth bothering about IMHO. The only lift pump is mechanical and does operate off the camshaft as you have noted.

The injector pump is generally trouble-free but if you search for something like "injector pump leaks" I think you will find examples of owners repairs/solutions.

You may care to look at the following as well if you want to know about pumps ...

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-file...ines_Rev_2.pdf

Otherwise , as I have hinted, there can be altogether alternate fix which can be simple or complicated - hard to tell without some commonsense hands-on investigation

The injector pump on my 300tdi leaks out of the seal of the throttle shaft. Normally it is not a problem, but after parking on an incline, the engine falters a bit, then comes good. I suspect that air is getting in. On the occasions that I have run out of fuel, all I have done to bleed the system is manually operate the lift pump.

300000km on a 300tdi is not excessive.

Aaron.

Just done this on my 200TDi in a RR classic worked a treat and runs better than ever
How to replace the throttle spindle seal on a Tdi Injection pump - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

It was leaking bad around the throttle shaft because bush was so worn. The return spring really side-loads the poor old bush. Got my bits off Ebay from a place in WA

Paul

Thanks for all the replies guys! I am a petrol guy but the 300Tdi seems like a nice little engine.

Apparently the timing belt was done recently but what's your knowledge about a 300tdi coolant leak somewhere around the timing cover onto the block?
I read it could be a "P gasket" and understand the timing cover is in two pieces, is coolant only between the inner piece and the block?
I am not sure if the last bloke that put the cover back on used just a gasket or sealant as well - i lightly smear my toyota gaskets with RTV...

And how can i tell/check if the timing belt gear has been upgraded to the type that doesn't chew up belts?
Thanks

Well, you have to take the timing cover off to view the belt and the drive cogs, it requires special tooling to hold the pulley to remove the pulley nut (27mm - same as wheel nuts). The pulley nut on the crankshaft should be done up really really tight and maybe even it is loktited. Then the pulley requires a puller after which you can remove the timing cover with fan bearing. If you can't borrow this tooling you can easily fabricate it. Yes - all takes time I know .

I know some people use the petrol engine method to loosen this nut with the starter motor but it is not recommended.

All of the above is easier with the radiator & intercooler out which is a good time to have the radiator pressure tested and the intercooler cleaned.

Replacement of the P gasket needs the water pump and inner housing removed. The coolant is right through from the block to the water pump.

If you want to check the P gasket externally for leaks shine a strong (LED) torch down around the P gasket in front of and above the alternator. If it has leaked you can probably see evaporated coolant deposit externally in this area (always assuming it has antifreeze mixed in of course) .

Repco have water pumps cheap.

I just watched a video and the guy did the p-gasket by removing the water pump and the housing it bolted onto. But this housing didn't look like the inner timing housing, just a little housing for the pump etc...?