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I agree, I will be getting this fitted without a doubt[thumbsupbig]Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
I do have an engine data scan gizmo fitted that gives me an accurate reading of the engine temperature But that will only work if there is enough coolant in the system and a low coolant alarm is a great idea to add as well.
I just bought one off Inc (check out the shop link on the top of the page)
I had NO idea that these alarms existed until I was having a yarn with the people at Whyatt's.
Apparently they come as standard issue on the D3 and D4's.
Another low coolant alarm can be made up using a Range Rover coolant cap which incorporates a float switch part PRC7925 need to use a coolant interface module in the circuit available from TEB Technology [url]www.teb-tec.co.uk. Works well on my 300tdi,saved the motor when a heater hose leaked behind the head.
Although a low coolant alarm is a good thing, I would rather find out why/where/how it is losing coolant and fix that issue rather than just drive around relying on a low coolant alarm to tell me when it has lost coolant
The coolant alarm is simply a tool to tell you that you haven't enough coolant in the system and it isn't meant to be a replacement for regular checks and repairs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morry948
I am getting mine fitted so that I will have ample warning IF something fails in the coolant system while I am driving so that I can avoid costly engine damage.
I will still be doing my normal pre start inspections and if anything is faulty I will fix it, the alarm is simply there just in case something goes wrong AFTER I have done my checks and something happens while I am driving the truck.
ok so you have just checked all your cooling system "visually" and you get in and go for a 2 hour drive out bush and suddenly the tiny split in the bottom hose which you could not possibly have seen unless you have xray vision gives way and dumps coolant, unbeknownst to yourself until your heat gauge (may or may not) goes through the roof and steam comes out and basically your engine comes to a stop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Morry948
now you are 2 hours away with a dead engine. a tow 4x4 truck will cost you about $1000+ to get you out. your very rare 200tdi head is scrap.
do you still think that the low coolant alarm is a non essential item?
the why/where/how argument for coolant loss is common knowledge. that should be done regardless. when you are driving though, you cannot see what's going on and no factory gauge is going to tell you.
dont forget with these engines that the water pump is situated up high on the engine. it takes stuff all coolant loss before you lose circulation. alloy heads don't like that. the Achilles heal of these engines is the cooling system. which is why they have specific low coolant alarms designed for them.
for a small cost, it is the absolute best investment you can make on this car. the first thing i would recommend to anyone getting a 300 or 200tdi is this, without a doubt.
Sorry, but you are missing the point.
I want to sort out the coolant loss issue.
My coolant loss issue wont be fixed by installing a low coolant alarm
I do not want spend and entire thread on how I should install a low coolant loss alarm
I already know that is good insurance, and recommendations are appreciated.
The only reason I know I am losing coolant is because I regularly check for things like this.
I am pretty sure that we have established WHERE the coolant is escaping the system which is from the overflow, Now we need to find out WHY.
You could get your coolant gas tested to see if there is a problem with the head or head gasket.
If that isn't the problem then there is the thermostat, expansion tank cap and the radiator that needs to be looked at as you have said non of the hoses are leaking.
It could also be something as simple as the expansion tank being overfilled prior to being driven and the excess coolant was simply ejected from the overflow.
Don't ignore the problem. Any coolant loss is an issue. Sounds like its only happening under pressure. Is a hose opening a leak under pressure? Do you need a new cap? Personally I think it would be cheap to replace both hoses and the cap. Then, if it still leaks, check the joint in the overflow bottle.
If the heater was leaking the leak would more likely be inside the vehicle, from my experience.