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You may be right. But when my heater matrix failed I consulted my local Disco specialist and he said to use the caps and block the flow. That was about 12 months ago. Since then across the Simpson and a separate trip Gibb River etc - and no problems.
I wonder what normally happens when you turn off your internal heater? Maybe someone knows if that stops the flow of hot water through the matrix?
Cliff
As far as I know the coolant flows through the heater regardless of if it is turned on or not.
I've just had a look in the Landrover Manual - for those that have the manual Section 80 Heating and Ventilation - Description and Operation Page 3.
"Heater and ventilation operation. The heating and ventilation system contains a heater matrix, which is connected to the engine cooling system, and a 4 speed fan for air distribution. Engine coolant is circulated through the heater matrix continuously, except when the temperature controls are set to COLD."
Cliff.
Just to clarify - my Discovery manual is "covers vehicles from 1995 model year".
Cliff.
A very few D1's and RRC's in Australia came fitted with a heater control valve but most didn't. The valve concerned has four hose connections and is designed so that coolant still flows through the engine connections regardless of its position. The valve if present is clearly visible in the engine bay between the engine and the heater connections. Fords and Holdens used this type of valve too in various models.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff
i thought the valve would stop flow and without a valve, the water would go though the heater regardless. mine has no valve and without bypassing the heater it would continue to go though it.
i thought the dash controls just change the direction of air using flaps, which can bring air from the cold outside, or redirect it through the matrix if you want warm. but the coolant circulates through the matrix all the time.
if you look behind the firewall where the barbs come out, those barbs are the end of the heater pipes which navigate around things under your dash and then plug directly into the matrix, which is a radiator type thingy. all passive devices with no moving parts. so i cannot see how you can stop flow to the heater. if how bee utey says some have a valve at the firewall though, then i guess you could stop the flow.
i would not cap these off. just as easy to modify the heater hoses near where they join to the barbs and put a 90 degree brass bit to give it a nice smooth circular motion to cycle through. i cut about 3 inches from one of the them where it makes it easy to join to the brass fitting without any sharp angles
Ok..I have installed an aftermarket Temperature gauge ( a mechanical one, cause I like them better ) and replaced the kinked hose
I ended up having to put the gauge sender in the bung on the radiator as I did not have an adapter to place where the factory sender is
Wasnt hot yesterday but took it for decent drive and got it warm
One thing that I did learn was the fact gauge is useless ( as had been advised on here, but its always good to find out for yourself [bigsmile1] )
The highest the temp gauge was about 83-85*c but mostly sat under 80, and when back in town it was around 60* mark
One thing I did notice was that the manual gauge showed that the engine cooled down fairly quickly. After belting it up some hills to get it working and warm up to 80* +, letting it roll down the other side it dropped 10*c rather quickly
And it didnt loose any coolant.
Just need to wait for a hot day now
It's not semantics - worthwhile investing in an engine temperature monitor that keeps an eye on the temperature of the block (or wherever else you put the sensor) rather than a coolant temp/level monitor. It's the temperature of the engine you're interested in, after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fausto79
Actually... I have been thinking about having a sensor direct into the head. Modern senors are not that bulky now so can be easily tapped into the head
And yes, I am more interested in the engine temp rather than when it gets low on coolant
The problem with using only a sensor that measures the coolant temperature in the block which is where the majority of these sensors are placed is that when there is a coolant loss the gauge can actually give a false cooler reading because of the lack of fluid to read the temp from and by the time it reads hot it is "Game Over" .Quote:
Originally Posted by Westie
Why not use both a temp gauge AND a low coolant alarm, At least the low coolant alarm will give you a far faster warning if a hose or the radiator fails and you will be well able to stop the engine before ANY further damage occurs [thumbsupbig]