Recommend me a good tool kit / socket set for a D1 300Tdi

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rick130

.... rather than the Wiha ($$) the rest of us tend to use.

---

had to search for that brand, not having heard of it before(so I thought).
Seems I have a Wiha pointy noise pliers, bought from Bunnings immdiately after the moment I desperately required a better quality version.. so rushed to Bunnings and inspected a few of the different brands pliers they had there.

Picked up this yellow/red handled thing, felt better than all the rest .. not knowing the brand at all.
All the others had some flex in each of the handle-pointy end of the grip lengths, except this Wiha ..
(only just checked the brand, not realising what mine was).

So yeah, nice quality stuff.
need a spare set for the shed

For quality, I really like Knipex for pointy nose pliers and O (Oetiker) clamp pliers (made in German and in German it's pronounced with the 'K')
Channel lock side cutters are pretty good and not too pricey for made in the US.
If you can find them, Marvel (Japanese) linesman pliers are excellent, although I have a pair of old Cabac's that are still soldiering on after about 7 years and used and abused every day.
Wiha and Witte for electrical screwdrivers, and there are several spec levels of those too, and are much, much cheaper to buy by the set rather than individually.

Agree with Johntins about getting quality over quantity. Sidchrome for me where possible. Avoid ratchets that have a little lever handle on the back for changing direction of rotation - they seem to be made of cast aluminium and zinc alloy, and are very brittle if you drop them on concrete. Prefer the sidchrome press button in the head. And get a variety of breaker bar lengths - skinned knuckles aren't worth the macho of undoing a hard nut with a short tool that suddenly runs away.


Torx for around the seats.

Crows feet sockets for unions on the steering box help when too tight for regular open spanners - you will be replacing hydraulic lines. [bawl]

Something to hold the harmonic balancer so you can use 3/4 breaker for undoing and doing up crank nose bolt, torque wrench - when doing timing belt change. You don't need 3/4 inch sockets for the bar, get an adaptor for half inch sockets. 1/2 inch breakers for this job are too flexible.

Set of sockets that are waisted at the tool end. Simple barrel shaped sockets can hinder access at time ie undoing the big nut holding the a-frame ball join on the rear axle banjo.

A good fork for lifting panel cards.

Axle stands and trolley jack. Two trolley jacks are handy to lift an an axle in one go and makes settling an axle on stands easier than using one jack side to side.

Everyone gets a set of reverse thread bits for removing stuck bolts (heads broken off and you drill a hole down the bolt shaft then insert the bit). You may as well join the tribe. They mostly don't work, but are cheap - sort of better to have than not.

Hand rivet gun. Tin snips, left, right and straight.

Dash cam and rear camera - helps recognise tools you left behind by mistake and the ones to come[bigrolf]

Oh! And a piece of wire with red ribbon on it (so you can find it) for opening small holes filled with mud ie brake bleeders.

I had this dilemma about 12 months ago and purchased the mechpro blue chest from repco. I'm pretty happy with it and it was on sale from $400 to $150 too!

"Everyone gets a set of reverse thread bits for removing stuck bolts (heads broken off and you drill a hole down the bolt shaft then insert the bit). You may as well join the tribe. They mostly don't work, but are cheap - sort of better to have than not."


I take it that you are talking about Ezy-outs. Sometimes these work. Many times they don't. If you break one off in the hole you have just drilled in the broken stud you are stuffed. They are too hard to drill. Better to have a set of reverse helix drills. Give the broken end of the stud a good hard deep centre punch. Transfer punches are handy for getting your punch mark on centre. Then use a reverse helix drill in a reversible drill. The thrust of the cutting action will mostly just wind the broken bit out.

I am pretty sure that Young Angus is talking about is a "Basic" tool kit that will enable Him to fix a Simple problem and enable Him to proceed onwards.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by trout1105

I am pretty sure that Young Angus is talking about is a "Basic" tool kit that will enable Him to fix a Simple problem and enable Him to proceed onwards.

---

in that case just take a bicycle with you everywhere you go.

My D1 developed an appetite for wheel bearings on trips so I carry a spare set (2 bearings seal lock washer, fits any wheel) and the necessary gear to change them, hammer, drift, circlip pliers, hub nut tube scanner, 13mm 12point spanner, grease and gasket silicone. It’s a fairly simple operation and if you are not confident doing it, at least you have the bits for someone else to help you.
Good luck for your trip.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Woolly

My D1 developed an appetite for wheel bearings on trips so I carry a spare set (2 bearings seal lock washer, fits any wheel) and the necessary gear to change them, hammer, drift, circlip pliers, hub nut tube scanner, 13mm 12point spanner, grease and gasket silicone. It’s a fairly simple operation and if you are not confident doing it, at least you have the bits for someone else to help you.
Good luck for your trip.

---

Something a miss of you’re having regular failed wheel bearings.....

An open end/ring spammer tool roll with both AF and Metric....this gives you two ring spanners to remove a nut and bolt. I think mine is KC Tools.....
A couple shifters
Pliers
Selection of screw drivers
Hammer
Stanley knife
Multi meter
AF and Metric Allen Keys
Tape...been meaning to buy rescue tape
Cable ties

All in a small tool bag.