Thread: VNT options for 98 300tdi auto

Originally Posted by Fausto79

So you think it was particular that that vehicle? Or you just don’t think d1 are all that reliable?

D1's are very reliable - IF they are serviced properly and regularly! And by serviced properly, I mean by someone who knows Land Rovers, not some hammer-wielding knuckle dragger who passes themselves off as a "meckanick"

Generally, problems like SSmith had will be the end result of someone earlier in the life of the vehicle failing to do what I said above. There are certain things that someone "in the know" will know to check while servicing a vehicle - particularly one that has been modified, and/or used off road. For example, a lot of time spent rock-hopping, particularly with lifted suspension, means the uni joints are working close to, or even beyond, their designed angles, so a closer eye needs to be kept on them, and on the output seals/bearings on the transfer case. Just a simple example, but one that could bring you undone in the middle of a long trip somewhere, if you hadn't taken that into account in your pre-trip maintenance inspection.

Originally Posted by Fausto79

So you think it was particular that that vehicle? Or you just don’t think d1 are all that reliable?

Nope, just mine

I kept it going for a few years. But I had simply "had enough" when the conrod bent. This was caused by my own stuff up, but the vast majority of preceding issues were not.

Donh has written some wise words

Anyway back to the topic, apologies to the OP for the hijack!

Yea sorry OP. Regarding vnt option. I’ve been eyeing the hybrid turbo cartridge. Quite cheap but you need better intercooler (which I don’t have) i think you do? And adjust fuelling. One thing which might help is ceramic coat inlet and outlet manifolds.

My plan is basically ceramic coat, hybrid turbo, bigger IC, bonnet vents, better pipe work from turbo to IC, better pipe work from snorkel. My safari snorkel seems very restrictive with too much frictional losses. I’m thinking of moving window washer bottle to where air box is (i have dual battery) and moving the air box there, with snorkel going straight in, up and straight out to turbo. My exhaust system is straight through 2 3/4 inch so needs nothing else. From turbo out to IC was thinking more aluminium pipes n less silicon. Possibly even putting heat sinks on some and getting the air vents nearby to get fast moving air past them. Pointless you say? Most probably, but it’s my car. I’m sure it makes a 1/50th of a horse power difference.

Hi Fausto.
I have ordered the turbo cartridge. I plan to get a second hand manifold to fit it on.
May get it ceramic coated. Yes I have an upgraded intercooler already. Need to fit a boost gauge.
Once in I will see how it goes. If needed I will re tune at the IP. If reasonable I will up the max fuel delivery depending on what egt’s are doing.
Will do some baseline performance measures (incl egts) before all of this so I can have some objective measure of the performance change:
0-60
0-80
0-100
60-100
80-110

Originally Posted by edddo

Hi Fausto.
I have ordered the turbo cartridge. I plan to get a second hand manifold to fit it on.
May get it ceramic coated. Yes I have an upgraded intercooler already. Need to fit a boost gauge.
Once in I will see how it goes. If needed I will re tune at the IP. If reasonable I will up the max fuel delivery depending on what egt’s are doing.
Will do some baseline performance measures (incl egts) before all of this so I can have some objective measure of the performance change:
0-60
0-80
0-100
60-100
80-110

Sounds like a good plan. Ceramic coat is cheaper than I thought. Got quoted around 300 for both manifolds. Be worth doing it whilst off. It will make your egt seem higher but engine temp should actually be slightly lower.

Have you re routed your wastegate pipe to the inlet manifold? This will get you boosting a few 100 revs earlier as well. All helps. My boost gauge is hooked up to a tpiece which comes out of manifold. There is a threaded ug at the back of it which makes it easy to tap into.

I now have the turbo cartridge.
Am looking at fitting a boost gauge.
I am not confident that the old boost line ( from turbo to IP) can be worked with - it looks hardened.
I have a gauge and it came with some transparent air line - is that kind of hose/line ok to replace the original line with?
What have others done when fitting a gauge?

Originally Posted by edddo

....
I have a gauge and it came with some transparent air line - is that kind of hose/line ok to replace the original line with?
What have others done when fitting a gauge?

It's probably fine to get it working, but that transparent line(in my experience ) hardens too over time(with heat) .. and cracks.

Some vacuum line is fine, but as you've seen hardens over time. Silicon won't.
I can't see that silicon is needed other than a bit of bling factor and the longer lasting nature of it.

vacuum line is very cheap .. like 50c /mt. May only cost a total of about $1-2 to redo all the lines already there.

left over scraps are handy as a pseudo stethoscope type tool, and other possible uses like broken portions of windscreen washer lines .. etc.

I fitted the boost gauge up today.
Took the pressure direct from the turbo - just put a T at the Turbo outlet to IP.
Max boost is about 18 - just for a couple of seconds when the pedal is pushed - then it drops to about 15. Seems about right.
Boost at 100 is about 10.

I had a feel of the turbo impeller and there is noticable play - but not sure if it is out of spec.
The car is not using oil (and boost is ok) so I think there is no imminent need to put the new cartridge in?

The next thing is to do the performance bench marking with current IP settings.

Finding it hard to get my self a second hand manifold/w turbo housing to prefit the new gear onto. Anyone got one?