300tdi Head Gasket

**trumpycam** · 9th May 2018, 06:20 PM

Thought I might post an update, OK still not done. With all the info at hand went ahead and took it off, all went as it was supposed to and pretty straight forward. Found leak between 3 & 4 cylinders, every thing else looked good still had hone marks in bores. Took head for checking at recommended engine place, also best in area so was vey busy and had to wait, found to be not very warped but was soft in a few places so he recommended a new head.Got it back late last week, and proceeded to replace,all went well except for a couple of bits, worst was that when I got head back he cleaned and replaced valves but did not put back thermostat housing! Any way found out why housing has holes for top bolts and slits for bottom (those who have done this know where I'm going) not good when you come to replace last bolt Fortunately with some careful hacking and grinding managed to avoid "go back to start card".At last minute decided to replace valve caps which arrived today but are the wrong one's so have to wait for replacements, also decided to upgrade intercooler has not arrived.Finally going to fit "Engine guard" to head and auto while I'm in a spending mood. Has anyone fitted one and where did you connect sensors?
Joe

**AK83** · 9th May 2018, 11:42 PM

Originally Posted by trumpycam

.... Has anyone fitted one and where did you connect sensors?
Joe

Never fitted one, but they look like they work with the commonly used loop/ring/washer type sensors.
For the engine temp sensor, front of head, just below the thermostat housing is an unused threaded hole.
You can see it from the front closer to the LHS of the head.
I'm pretty sure it's M8 .. dunno how deep tho, but a 10-12mm M8 bolt looks as tho it'd be perfect.
You can test fit one of your pulley bolts to confirm it yourself.
That is, remove fan and one bolt from the belt pulley. Fan/waterpump/power steering pulley all use the same bolt size(thankfully!) and it's about 10/12mm thread depth.

Trans sensor? .. auto or manual?
If Auto, and you're 100% sure that the ring would provide a perfect seal, remove the trans temp sensor and fit it between the pipe to the trans cooler and the sensor.

**trumpycam** · 23rd May 2018, 09:30 PM

All done and running well,bought a 90mm oversize intercooler to finish off, however did not just slip in as hoped, spent a lot of time modifying everything associated with it rad surround hoses as well as intercooler itself, but eventually got it to fit. Last job was valves, not sure what is common way to do but trying to turn crank from underneath was a PITA doing it alone, so decided to remove fan again and glow plugs and job can be done from top and engine turned easily. Old RRC seems to have appreciated the effort hopefully for another 300K.
Thanks again
Joe

**Fausto79** · 23rd May 2018, 10:54 PM

Originally Posted by trumpycam

All done and running well,bought a 90mm oversize intercooler to finish off, however did not just slip in as hoped, spent a lot of time modifying everything associated with it rad surround hoses as well as intercooler itself, but eventually got it to fit. Last job was valves, not sure what is common way to do but trying to turn crank from underneath was a PITA doing it alone, so decided to remove fan again and glow plugs and job can be done from top and engine turned easily. Old RRC seems to have appreciated the effort hopefully for another 300K.
Thanks again
Joe

I usually just lift one front wheel off ground, put it in fourth gear and pull the IP solenoid wire off, then you just turn the wheel to turn over engine.

**AK83** · 24th May 2018, 06:40 AM

24" ratcheting breaker bar!

Remove fan, 27mm or 1-1/16th socket on breaker bar, handle protrudes just high enough for good access, and the ratchet action means you don't have to continually remove it from the crank nut and find an appropriate location .. you just ratchet it.

24" cost me about $50 or so from a discount tool store in Melbourne's west. Handy for when the wheel nuts have over tightened themselves a bit too much too.
Best tool for a tdi when doing tappets

**Blknight.aus** · 27th February 2019, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

Read post #5. Contact Mario for ALL the parts you need. He and Heather only supply the best, they arrive quickly and he gives a discount to AULRO members off his already reasonable prices. Makes sure to ask for the injector return line hose assy, as it is almost certain to leak once it is disturbed, and it isn't expensive.

It's a relatively simple job. Do you have RAVE? If not go to Dave's (Incisor) shop and get it: RAVE I CD

How long since the timing belt was done? 'Cos you might as well do that while you are at it. Have a look at this:

tdi300 timing belt.

Dave's ( Blknight) tute is great. Unfortunately it has fallen foul of those morons at Photo****et. I have a copy of it somewhere which I will dig up if you choose to do the belt.

Another tute of Blknight's is this, for refilling and bleeding the cooling system:

the coke bottle cooling system fill.

IF you do I'll redo the thread and local save the pics....

failing that...

I have a project tdi300 that I'd be willing to sell on for about what I bought it for and with a partial refurb if the buyer bought the parts and turned up to take the photos.

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