Thread: Centre diff light beginning of mods - Anyone fitted a davies electric water pump tdi

• ...if the lever is over to the left in high, diff lock is engaged

Having been driven on tarmac for probably 200 k's plus since the diff light came on, the fact it went out immediately when i got it across the gate (would reasonably expect at least some binding) could this mean the diff lock is damaged or non operational and if so how can this be checked?

Originally Posted by RRT

Attachment 148873
been thinking about the temps and this is the monitor I have fitted (alarm set at 100C), should the sensor be low on the motor or high up around the water pump? I ask this because if it does lose fluid, a sensor mounted high will then be sensing air and not the fluid so would therefore not show a rise in temperature necessarily.

The sensor should be mounted up in the head - maybe to an inlet manifold bolt.

100c is too high. What you need to do is get your engine up to operating temperature and driving around - the temp on the engine watch dog will show somewhere between 70 and 75 degrees if on a inlet manifold bolt. You note the temp as that is what the watch dog will show when everything is normal. Set the alarm 10 to 15 degrees higher.

thanks Gary,
Today with 39 C and Saturday Drivers through the city, just as bad as peak hour from a few years back, the temp on the monitor got to 91 and then settled back to 85 on the cruise round lunch, 85 on the cruise back and up to 93 when sitting still this afternoon, air con on all the time.

Haven't been able to find where the sensor is located but also haven't taken off the rubber shroud yet, another job for tomorrow as I want to relocate the gauge in preparation for Labour day and taking on Billy Goat bluff...

YouTube

Originally Posted by RRT

thanks Gary,
Today with 39 C and Saturday Drivers through the city, just as bad as peak hour from a few years back, the temp on the monitor got to 91 and then settled back to 85 on the cruise round lunch, 85 on the cruise back and up to 93 when sitting still this afternoon, air con on all the time.

Ok that is great to get those actual numbers - where have you got your sensor? Not on the thermostat I hope as all you will be measuring is coolant temp ands you already have a gauge for that.

Assuming your sensor is in a good spot, I would try setting your alarm at 95 (10c above your normal 85c) for a while and see how you go - if the alarm goes off a lot then back to your current 100c. The 91 is expected in slow traffic on a hot day where there is not a lot of airflow over the engine and like you I have found the hottest is when you are just sitting - there is not much coolant circulating with little airflow and the heat build up from driving before hand is starting to build up in the engine - for a good engine and cooling system that is about as hot as the metal in the engine should get so the alarm at 95 should be OK but if it is alarming too much bung it up to 100c and remember if it starts alarming when the temps should be normal - check the engine.

Make sure you have your sensor out of the airflow from the fans in the valley of the engine - like behind the alternator or something like that. Direct airflow will influence the sensor. I have one on my aircooled Haflinger and it sits on 60 - 70 on a hot day but as soon as it is turned off the temp goes straight up to 100c - this indicates to me the the big fan that cools the engine is doing its job but on your V8 the air from the fan can influence the sensor so have it out of the main airflow.

Garry

In our D1, as others have said, you want the lever pulled back towards the driver and across to the right to be high range no diff lock.
Ours had a 2inch lift and the largest tyres to fit without cutting were 245/70/16s. Ours had 245/75/16s and they rubbed slightly.
Remember that larger tyres mean slower acceleration and longer braking distances.
I recommend you change all fluids - coolant, all oils (engine, gearbox, transfer and diffs), brake and power steering. Give everything a really good flush. Fluids are cheap insurance.
There is a filter in the auto which is often overlooked, but must be changed or it clogs up and limits oil circulation.
Also recommend you fit new headlight bulbs, such as the Phillips plus series.
A half cargo barrier is good safety insurance - or you could buy a Dolium cargo net as I now have in our Defender.
The luggage area is short in D1s so a cargo barrier allows safe stacking.
Pull up the carpets and look for rust in the footwells and the boot floor, as well as the opera windows. Use rust converter, paint with rust converter in it and then Lanolin.
The engine main belt needs replacing every 80,000 kms. Also the air-con belt. It's fiddly so unless you're a mechanic yourself get a workshop to do it. Getting it wrong can cause major damage.
There was a pulley upgrade for the main belt. Check it has been done.
The radiator in ours needed replacing at 160,000. They don't like to get hot at the top of the engine and are under pressure, so don't skimp around with the cooling system- get it done. Check hoses too.
Get the air-con serviced and checked. There may be a filter to be changed.
D1s are a great truck. I wish we still had ours.

Originally Posted by RRT

.....

Haven't been able to find where the sensor is located but also haven't taken off the rubber shroud yet .....

A coomon location for those watchdog temp systems is to use a ring sensor with a bolt on the lower front LH(passengers) side of the head.
It'll be hard to see unless you specifically look in that area, down under the thermostat/waterpump area looking from the front of the engine bay.
Normally, there would be just a threaded hole in there(can't remember, maybe M6 or M8??)
So, look for what could be mistaken as an earth point in that area, with a eye fitting. I think the eye fitting is that actual temp sensor. If that's it, then your measuring actual temp of the head, not coolant.
From my testing(using a VDO sensor in coolant) .. it ends up pretty much the same result.

Your temps sound pretty good, with A/C on too.

Your electric fans should run whenever the air-con is on. Turn off the air-con and hear the fans stop.

What a morning I had on Sunday!, light came on for Battery and thought ohh great the work done on Dual battery system didn't work and only 2 k's from Brother in Laws (BIL) to finish the winch installation, no Problem... next set of lights and waiting, turn the bend and all of a sudden the steering goes heavy, seconds later a loud shrill noise and as unsused to the noise, had a look round and noticed the temp gauge on 104 and climbing, pulled over and hiss of water could be heard temp now 114 engine off.

Found out where the Temp Guard is connected now!!! Picture shows it just to the left and near the cylinder head

RACV called and could see a hose off and one wrapped around the viscous fan, no idea where the leak was. Well the small belt must have come off and in so doing dislodged the main belt and it turns out the harmonic balancer was wobbling all over the place. Previous owner had mentioned this so this was planned for the next service., hence already purchased said piece.

Tow truck and get on with it, well didnt have the requisite 32 flat wrench for the fan and we took off the four bolts first, this to allow for the long handle to be taken to the bolt, well,waste of time, the BIL got down to find the size of the bolt and 10 minutes later, had it out on the ground, no long bars, no bar against the chassis and starter motor, easy as you like - see pictures, we probably could have gotten by tightening the bolt if we were up the bush, for a short term repair only of course

Thinking it may have been loose since I got it and just part of the cacophony of diesel sounds emanating from under the bonnet, but no problem until one belt came off!! See attached pictures

Go home get the balancer and twice as long putting the 4 bolts back into the viscous coupling as doing the main job


Start filling the tank again and turns out the underside of the expansion has a small nozzle on the underside which broke clean off, the perfect piece to repair this turned out to be a tyre valve, the inners pulled out and the threaded component required a 7mm drill bit and with a bit of teflon would have been perfect, except we didn't have a 7 mm and eventually cracked the tank itself, so new tank it is.

Anyway the car started and idled smoothly (as much as smooth and TDi go) but the good news was how clean the pipes were and state of the rubber hoses we removed.


Funny thing was IF I had fitted the electric water pump already, the only story here would have been the change of belts and harmonic balancer as the electric pump would have kept going irrespective of the belt!!!!

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