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Thread: Auto questions

  1. #1
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Auto questions

    Hi All,

    I will be shortly doing a 300Tdi transplant from a manual car into an auto.

    So far I've worked out that we'll need to swap the drive plate housing, and drive/flex plate from the old motor to the new one.

    Do we remove the spigot bearing from the crankshaft and then the torque converter locates into the crankshaft were the spigot bearing was?

    The engine rebuild manual I have describes measuring the drive plate to drive plate housing, and shimming to achieve 12.4mm.
    The manual states shims are available 1.0mm to 2.1mm in 0.1mm increments.

    I've worked out the part no.s as FRC6290 through FRC6301, but they don't seen to be available.

    What have people done?

    When refitting the motor, do you fit the torque converter to the transmission, fit the motor and insert the drive plate bolts through the hole in the drive plate housing, or fit the torque converter to the drive plate and try and get the pump drive and input splines to engage in the transmission?

    Anything I've missed?

    Thanks in advance

    Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by TonyC View Post
    .....

    When refitting the motor, do you fit the torque converter to the transmission, fit the motor and insert the drive plate bolts through the hole in the drive plate housing, or fit the torque converter to the drive plate and try and get the pump drive and input splines to engage in the transmission?

    Anything I've missed?

    Thanks in advance

    Tony
    All videos/advice and tips I've seen about these ZFs is that you fit the converter and then measure the distance from the converters mounting to the face of the engine-trans face and there is a specified distance for various models. I first saw this on Ashcrofts, and then various fora and then U-tubes. This is to ensure that pump has been set properly ... not just set and forgotten.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #3
    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    All videos/advice and tips I've seen about these ZFs is that you fit the converter and then measure the distance from the converters mounting to the face of the engine-trans face and there is a specified distance for various models. I first saw this on Ashcrofts, and then various fora and then U-tubes. This is to ensure that pump has been set properly ... not just set and forgotten.
    Thanks Arthur,

    Do you mean fit the converter to the transmission or drive plate?

    I assume what you describe is a different way of doing what is in the manual that I've outlined above.

    Tkny

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    Always fit the converter to the transmission. Always. PITA getting bolts in but if you do it the other way and fit it to the drive plate you will almost certainly destroy the pump when you offer up the transmission
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    You can feel when it engages properly. Apply firm pressure while rotating it. It will go in and seat but keep going because it will probably go in another “seat””
    ,if that makes sense. Take your time because you don’t get a second chance.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Always fit the converter to the transmission. Always. PITA getting bolts in but if you do it the other way and fit it to the drive plate you will almost certainly destroy the pump when you offer up the transmission

    Correct. You can feel when the ears on the TC engage with the pump.

    In my case (C9) it was easier with the auto standing on its tail end, the TC drops down noticeably when properly engaged. Take your time............. I thought mine was engaged, but it really wasn't at first.

    The check is when you offer the trans with the TC installed up to the motor. using a couple of pilot studs.......... there should be a gap between the flex plate and the TC of about 2mm when the mating surfaces of trans and engine meet. This is your second and last chance to get it right.

    If there isn't such a gap something is WRONG and you shouldn't proceed until you work out what it is.

    cheers, David L

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    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Thanks John and David.

    Well and truly taken on board.

    Anyone have any ideas about the unavailable shims?

    I've spoken to a couple of AU suppliers, and they've never heard of them.
    I've found them listed on 2 UK supplier sites one, Craddock have a couple of sizes listed but unsure if they actually have any, the other lists evey second one, IE the even increments, but says no longer available.

    A manual would be easier, I understand them, unlike this box of black magic 😁

    Tony

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