Reply With QuoteSounds pretty good to me, very low kays. Electric rustproofing is a bit voodoo & the head lining WILL sag, just a matter of when. It's a cheap fix ($300 or so). We all live with budgetry constraints, so buy the best you can afford. Happy motoring
Fossicker
Thanks to all of you who joined the TDI Vs the TD5 debate in my earlier post.
Although I really like the TD5 the ones in my price bracket had all seem to have a lot of K's on them and not a very clear service hisstory.
Having read all your comments on the pros and cons of both I have decided to go for a late model TDI. I am currently looking at a 98 TDI with 113,000 on the clock. The k's seem genuine as the log book is stamped up to the 77,000 mark and there are receipts for oil and filter changes up to around 111,000 but only about every 10.000 K or more.
The body is in excellent condition and has a electronic rust proofing fitted. The alloys wheels are again excellent and the tyres all have reasonable to good tread left (spare brand new).
The interior is looking a bit faded but had not been detailed yet. I expect I can renew any bits looking too faded. Over head lining excellent.
So my question is what should I be looking for before I buy it and also what are your top recommendations to change parts or tweak when I first get it to make it as reliable as I can..
Thanks
Gozzie
Super Moderator
Sounds pretty good to me, very low kays. Electric rustproofing is a bit voodoo & the head lining WILL sag, just a matter of when. It's a cheap fix ($300 or so). We all live with budgetry constraints, so buy the best you can afford. Happy motoring
Ok, is it Auto or manual?
What are you wanting to do with it?
The usual checks:
-: Trans oil/fluid lever and condition (is it low, does it smell burnt, is it a really dark colour?)
-: Coolant condition/level (you can only do a visual inspection here so check the colour and level, it should be clean and green or clean and that orange sort of colour but not be rusty or have stuff floating around in it. The best way to check the coolant is to take an emty bottle with a hose attached and suck a bit of coolant out of the reserviour and then check and put it back in)
-: Check the normal things undernieth for leaks keeping in mind that most rovers leak a little but major leaks should be checked more closely atleast.
(Check Swivels, Front and rear mains, Vacuum pump, Rocker cover, Trans to t/c, diff pinion seals, axel seals etc)
-: Listen to how the engine starts and how it runs when cold, if it cranks over a few times before starting then it may have problems as you really only need to lean on the key to start them normally and they generally run fairly smoothe straight away as well.
-: They are no power house but they are ok in the go stakes even if they dont feel like they are going that hard but mine reaches 80km/h in about 12 secs on the flat with the pedal flat to the boards on about a 23 deg day but mines pretty heavy and runs taller tyres so takes a bit longer but I have been in some that would struggle to get that in standard trim with road tyres which needed fiddling with the pump to bring them up to spec.
-: Springs and shocks will be getting a bit past it by now and will more than likely be up for a change shortly after you get it unless they have been done recently and just keep an ear out for knocks and rattles in the suspention.
As far as things to do for reliability, the first thing I would look at would be to do the 2 belts and put good quality bearings through the idler pulleys and make sure your radiator is in good nick and clean out your intercooler while you have it out.
From there I normally when I buy a new (to me ) car is to go through and change all the oils and check things like wheel bearings and unis and the like.
I would go over things like the valve clearances as well and maybe check the rubber dounut.
Thats all I can think of for now, Im sure there is plenty of other stuff that others will come up with to check or change etc.
Master
SubscriberDisco?
Manual/Auto?
What sort of $? (pm if like)
Get someone who knows diesels to look over it for you... I learnt the hard way...?
2010 110 Crew Cab Deefa
Mittagong NSW 2575
Fossicker
The TDI I am looking at is an Auto, I will be taking it for an extended test drive next wekend.
The main reason for getting the Discovery is to tow a boat, well under 2000 kgs. Currently there is not much distance involved in the towing but I hope to increase that once I am happy with the Discovery and am confidant towing. I plan to keep it for a long time, hence trying to get a decent looking one with relatively low Ks on.
being a relative novice to the world of diesels I am trying to do learn as much as possible before I dive in blindly, so all advice is greatly received..
Gozzie
Thats the best thing you can do is gather info
There can be a few niggles with all Diesels but generally they are almost set and forget for tens of thousands of K's with just normal servicing in between but things like fuel quality and injector condition as well as a few other adjustments really go a long way to keeping them going at their best.
If you do start looking for more power then there are some injector pump mods you can do or you can have a look at LPG vapour injetion, some of the guys on here are running it and they say it seems pretty good, Im just waiting to see if it shortens the life of the engine before I take the plunge but all looks good so far.
Good luck and any questions are more than welcome.
Fossicker
Mine is a 98 model, Tdi, automatic.
I would say:
1). Check the alpine windows for rust.
2). The roof lining will sag, so allocate $300 and stick it in your shoe for later.
3). Run it up to 85 kmph and check that the torque converter locks (should feel like it hits '5'th gear and revs will drop a few hundred. Its a 4 speed transmission, but the lock-up will almost feel like another gear. The lockup is around 78-82 kmph, the unlock around 74-78kmph (i think)
4). Check the front brake rotors for wear, my fist pair last about 130,000kms.
5). Check timing belt has been changed, that can be a pricey replacement.
6). Check for rust around the tops of doors, near the windows and rust around the side mirrors on both front doors.
7). Normal stuff, like test the wiper/washers (people never do and the ycan be expensive to replace).
8). Sounds stupid, but if the seller will let you, HEAVILY spray water with a hose onto and above the front windscreen, alpine windows and rear window, as these had water ingress issues .. if you see drips inside the cabin in these areas, factor in some seal/rubber replacements and check these areas for rust.
Thats about all i can think of !
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