Thread: Rebuild or newer model

In either case your never going to get your money back no matter what option you take.

If your happy with vehicle, if its in reasonable nick spend the money and upgrade it as its cheaper than buying somebody else second problems which eventually your going to have spend money on to upgrade maintain or replace anyway.

IMO a Rebuilt is a Much better Option , then you know what condition your engine's in.

Rebuild for sure. You know your vehicle and you must like it seeing your considering keeping it as an option. You'd have a great all round vehicle if you do what your thinking.

Xav

I had decided that a rebuild is the way to go - just makes more sense to end up with a car almost as good as new for less money. Most of it I'll DIY, kinda makes it more fun anyway. It will take a while, just going down the list and still keeping it running in between the major work.

This is the list, please feel free to suggest things that I make have forgotten. Starting from the front and in no particular order:

HID light inserts for OEM lights and the Bosch fog light/drivings light on the bull bar
Electric fans ( for normal work) - I'll retro fit the viscous fan when I go far out bush.
Clean out radiator ( it had a new core 2 years ago)
Rebuild engine - everything to as new spec - bearings, re-bore & pistons ( if necessary), rings, grind valves, timing belt, water pump, new engine mounts, (is a new oil pump necessary)
New injectors
Rebuilt or new fuel pump ( are rebuilds possible?)
New vacuum pump
New alternator
New hoses everywhere
New Variable vane turbo from Jase
Fit replacement axles, front and back with tru-trac diff centres, new bearings, new rubber bushes, maxidrive rear axles and flanges, tie rod ends, a-frame ball joint and anything else that can wear out
New bilsteins all round
Replace all uni joints
Fit auto transmission and transfer case, new mounts.
Overhaul all the brakes calipers and fit new discs, new brake lines and "Greenstuff" pads.
Diesel Gas installation
Supplementary fuel tank - 45-50lt
DIY Rock sliders/steps - and something to protect the gas tank
DIY Rear bar

Options are:
4.11 gearing - I have 265-75 tyres, is it worth it considering the new turbo and gas install
Better seats - either after market ( Recaros or similar) or later model seats

Other things:
Figure out why the front A/C system is so weak - hardly blows at all out the middle vents but can really blow hard out the foot well vents.

Accessories ( Part time fitting)
Fridge
HID light inserts for the 4 x Hella 181 on the roof rack


Is there anything else I've missed?


Iain

Get an older model, the real thing, the creme de la creme of Land Rovers, an Isuzu engined LR.

By the sound of all that work I think you should buy a well worn auto model and rebuild it then sell yours when your finished.

Iain, convert your rear tail shaft from the rubber donut to a uni joint style, the flange is the same as the front and tail shaft the same as a Rangie classic, (check for wear in the splines) I have worn out 4 donuts due to a mild lift but more flex.

I had mine rebuilt and balanced at driveline services (Archerfield or Strathpine)

Forget the true tracs and go for part time lockers ARB, Maxi-drives or McNamara. Full time lockers can make your car nervous on the road.

Don't forget to re-bush all your suspension and body components (driveline also do a kit) The back end of mine is a little wobbly.

I also have brought stuff in from UK and have found that they have a great market for land rovers and way cheaper than here.

Have a look in a LRM mag for sites.

Good luck in which ever way you go, I too have the same problem ahead however I have the new motor and need the auto fixed, I am also wanting 3 point seatbelts in the back due to having 3 kids (safety)

I am interested in how much all the work Jase does as too how much horsepower you get in return. A chipped TD5 gives you 130kw +

Horses for courses

Danny