You need an ATF meeting ZF TE-ML 11 specification. Anything on this list http://www.zf.com.au/Tech%20Info/Lub...TE-ML%2011.pdf is fine.
A is for standard, B is for synthetics.
Hi, I'm going to do an oil change on the auto box of my D1 shortly, is there anything I need to know or check?
I've read that ATF III or IID is what I need to fill it. Can anyone recommend an exact type and brand of oil to use?
You need an ATF meeting ZF TE-ML 11 specification. Anything on this list http://www.zf.com.au/Tech%20Info/Lub...TE-ML%2011.pdf is fine.
A is for standard, B is for synthetics.
hi, jump on the castrol aust web site and fiddle around, you can find a complete reference of what your vehicle takes, including qty, type etc.
as for doing an auto oil change, i recommend you get an oil change kit to suit the zf, as there is a filter inside the sump which clogs when the box is sick, and if it is clogged you will do more damage [how do i know that - check my wallet]
you will need to unbolt the crossmember, that is the big tube under the gearbox, as it impedes removal of the sump, and bash it forward as far as yiu can, you can then get the sump out reasonably easily.
of course i have left out small bits for you to learn yourself,
pm me if you have trouble.
Undoing the cross-member!
Is this a job I should be attempting as an amateur mechanic, or it is better left to a pro?
Did you end up with Micks D1??
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
if you can change the oil in everything else and do the tappets then you can change the auto fluid...
undoing the cross member can take some work but should be doable with nothing more than a set of ring spanners but a 3/8 inch socket set makes life quicker and easier.
if the cross memeber doesnt want to play put a piece of shoring timber (4x4 hardwood works best) with a pair of wedge plates in place and wedge the chassis apart a little and the thing will fall out. a high lift jack if you get the angles right will also work well here if you have some helpers to steady it while you put some pressure on it.
once its out (being prepared to make a big mess) unbolt the pan start at a back corner and alternating left and right crack off all the bolts.
leave one in each back corner by a couple of turns and keep loosening off the front pan bolts till the pan starts to fall away, this will be evident by the ATF Draining out. you can help yourself out here by driving the front up onto a set of wheel ramps prior to starting but remember to leave enough room to roll the vehicle back before you try to fill the trans.
drop the pan off once youve got the oil out (there will be some left) then pull the old strainer off from under the trans, put the new one in place replace the gasket and then refit the pan, fill with trans oil and your done.
if your lucky you might have a modded pan that has a drain bung or a return line from a cooler plumbed into it. If it does drain it from that first and then wash the pan out with some oil to remove the crud but other wise treat as before.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Good to hear! If you want all the service history I have I can dig it out and mail it across to you? The guy that had it before Mick did almost no miles at all, I think HE bought it with 60K on the clock from a car yard. It came with the lockers, the hydraulic winch etc etc.
How does the auto fluid look? I seem to recall servicing it before Mick went over there, can't be all that long ago but he DID tow a bit with it AFAIR.
Anyway, let me know and I'll give you the run down on what it had done to it and when. You can give me a call on 0408 995 635 if you want to discuss any of it.
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Thanks JC, I have quite a few receipts but there are some gaps. If there are any receipts you can lay your hands on easily it would be very much appreciated.
The auto oil appears to look ok, being a clear reddish colour. I know Mick had a roof rack and towed a camper from Tas so I thought maybe a refresh of the auto oil might be warranted. It seems to change gear alright but holds each gear for a while compared to the V8 auto. When driving back from Kal I also noticed the interior carpet covering the gearbox on the driver's side would get hot and then cool again (although it was 44degC near Merriden!).
In the next couple of weeks I'm going to give it a full going over, changing all the oils and filters I can.
The Tdi holds gears more than the V8 anyway, A Tdi that changes early has problems
I would leave the autobox if the oil looks OK and smells unburnt as I'm sure we only just did it. Mick was pretty good at looking after his vehicles.
44degrees will do that
I once got a burn on my lower leg from the rollcage in my RR 2 door in 48degree temps out near Wubin. The bitumen was actually liquefying too that day
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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