Thread: 300tdi auto wont change when cold

Originally Posted by jeep_boy

**** **** **** **** ****, you smacked the nail on the head i didnt put that bloody o ring back on what the hell was i thinking im such a fool glas i have some extra fluid ill drop it out put the o ring on and hope she is all well, would i have done damage or should it be ok

It'll be OK if you only drove a short while, but you may notice some clutch material in the sump already
I bet you're upset at yourself now for driving it like you stole it

Glad its a simple fix though unfortunately (or fortunately?) I've seen this sort of thing before...

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

I would guess that the rubber O ring between the valve body and the filter has fallen to one side during installation and is not sealing properly. (The larger diameter one in the kit) This will give the same symptoms as low or no fluid, and will allow the fluid from the pump and converter to drain back to the sump after turning off, and will have to refill the converter etc before any drive happens again. Also, it will hop out of gear etc up hills as the pressure will be way too low with that sort of air leak. I would be dropping the sump and filter again and checking this O ring. If you continue driving it like this it will strip more clutch material off the packs due to low pressures.
I re read the posts and also noticed you said you had very little difference in oil level when engine was on or off. This is almost certainly due to that O ring leaking.

JC

So thats what happens if you dont fit that o ring properly

That makes sense JC

Originally Posted by goldey

Jeepboy

As someone who has a buggered auto, my amateur prognosis based on what you've written and the advice I've received from experts (after they've pressure tested the box and investigated contaminants in the oil) is you may be up for some large biccies.

I have a 98 tdi Disco auto. It has a touch under 140,000 k's on it, the engine is sweet, but the gearbox has always run a bit hot. 6 months ago, I replaced the standard auto cooler with a much larger one from a P38A range rover. This seemed to sort the overheating issues out, but three weeks ago the gearbox started slipping like crazy and wouldn't change out of 1st until I got the revs waaayyyyy high (regardless of cold or hot) and the oil smelt like it had served time in a blast furnace (didn't smell good at all). I now know the damage was well and truly done (most likely by the previous owner, who used to do a lot of towing of horse floats).

Solution in my case is replacing the existing auto with a fully reconditioned exchange unit from A&B Automotive in Dandenong (with a 3rd gear lockup conversion, apparently much better for towing). It arrives tomorrow and my local Landie experts get to change them over on Tuesday. I haven't been able to get anywhere near my wallet for some time as it is still smoking hot ........ . I'm hoping to get out of it without going over about $3600.

I hope you get yours sorted out, but it's sounding kind of familiar........ sorry .

Goldey

There you go, you might be able to get out of it worst case scenareo about $3600

Originally Posted by mcrover

Well if yours has free play then yours is not adjusted correctly

It has to be under tension, no question as it will cause damage to the box eventually due to low line pressure.

If you dont believe me, look in your RAVE, or any service manual or ask JC or any of the other LR mechs.

I'm not doubting you mate, it's just that there is a few mm play at idle.

The box has been out recently and it has been properly set up by a main dealer prior to sale to me, it shifts at the right road speeds and kicks down when needed so I'm going to be worried about it.

RAVE seems to detail only the V8s so its not much use.

If it blows up, A&B get a rebuild job and I'll sue the repairer for the cost for not setting it proper

Goldey please let me know how the 3 rd gear lockup works on a 300Tdi when done.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by justinc

It'll be OK if you only drove a short while, but you may notice some clutch material in the sump already
I bet you're upset at yourself now for driving it like you stole it

Glad its a simple fix though unfortunately (or fortunately?) I've seen this sort of thing before...

JC

done prob 20ks hope i havent done damage i cant slap myself enough just went outside and there it was sitting on the ground where i put the botttom one on and rushed and missed the top one gosh cant believe im that stoopid

Originally Posted by B92 8NW

I'm not doubting you mate, it's just that there is a few mm play at idle.

The box has been out recently and it has been properly set up by a main dealer prior to sale to me, it shifts at the right road speeds and kicks down when needed so I'm going to be worried about it.

RAVE seems to detail only the V8s so its not much use.

If it blows up, A&B get a rebuild job and I'll sue the repairer for the cost for not setting it proper

Your trans, your problem, Ive told you how it should be, it isnt very clear in the RAVE CD ,I just had a look but it is the same on both V8 and Diesel as the trans is pretty much the same.

The Rave take into account a new cable and obviously doesnt take into account worn holes or pins.

It was Mal at Mornington Prestige (Ex Deacon automotive) who showed me how to set the kick down cable properly and explained to me why it is so important.

Dont trust any car yard to do a propper job, they will only do enough to get the car out of the workshop and thats about it, they will fix it if it stuffs up but I doubt you will get an A&B reco out of them as they will only take the lowest possible cost to them and legally thats all they have to do and no matter how good with the legal clap trap you cant make them pay more than they need to to get your car out of their workshop.

I suggest you take it to a decent LR specilist who knows how these things should be set up for a second opinion before you just resign yourself to it being good enough as from what your saying, it doesnt sound right and to fix it properly will cost a penny and if they dont do it properly it will cost you down the track anyway.

Im not trying to harp on but there is no reason to leave such a simple adjustment that can do so much damage due to ignorance or the fact that you are prepared to sue the people who sold it to you if it stuffs up.

By the way, depending on how you drive (the load) depends on how long it will last with a loose KD cable so it may last until just out of warrenty and then it's your $3600 no matter what you do.

Originally Posted by mcrover

Your trans, your problem, Ive told you how it should be, it isnt very clear in the RAVE CD ,I just had a look but it is the same on both V8 and Diesel as the trans is pretty much the same.

The Rave take into account a new cable and obviously doesnt take into account worn holes or pins.

It was Mal at Mornington Prestige (Ex Deacon automotive) who showed me how to set the kick down cable properly and explained to me why it is so important.

Dont trust any car yard to do a propper job, they will only do enough to get the car out of the workshop and thats about it, they will fix it if it stuffs up but I doubt you will get an A&B reco out of them as they will only take the lowest possible cost to them and legally thats all they have to do and no matter how good with the legal clap trap you cant make them pay more than they need to to get your car out of their workshop.

I suggest you take it to a decent LR specilist who knows how these things should be set up for a second opinion before you just resign yourself to it being good enough as from what your saying, it doesnt sound right and to fix it properly will cost a penny and if they dont do it properly it will cost you down the track anyway.

Im not trying to harp on but there is no reason to leave such a simple adjustment that can do so much damage due to ignorance or the fact that you are prepared to sue the people who sold it to you if it stuffs up.

By the way, depending on how you drive (the load) depends on how long it will last with a loose KD cable so it may last until just out of warrenty and then it's your $3600 no matter what you do.

JC just contacted me out of the blue and explained the set up. Seems I was slightly mistaken but it's all good now.

Which is good as I'm going on a trip in the morning

this cable adjustment, is it where it meets the box and has a threaeded rod at the end of the cable