Thread: how to bend rocksliders to follow the body line...

Stooge is right. If anything, I fitted quite wide washers to spread the load.

I agree with the use of rollers, best way imo.

I bought mine recently and they were rolled to fit the body line, except right at the front where the bottom of the wing is as that goes up even further which is why there is a "fillet" on the original plastic trim.

mine are rolled slightly and the angle changes about 1/2 way along the front door. If I had made them myself, I would have added a weld / fillet piece at the front section to "fill" the gap, still could I suppose but it would ruin the nice paint job at the mo

Originally Posted by Urban Panzer

I agree with the use of rollers, best way imo.

I bought mine recently and they were rolled to fit the body line, except right at the front where the bottom of the wing is as that goes up even further which is why there is a "fillet" on the original plastic trim.

mine are rolled slightly and the angle changes about 1/2 way along the front door. If I had made them myself, I would have added a weld / fillet piece at the front section to "fill" the gap, still could I suppose but it would ruin the nice paint job at the mo

Thats different. I like it!

correct! the previous owner of that D2 and sliders ''the entertainer'' was told to get some 50x3 FMS and cut it 50 long and drill holes in the center....looks like he never did

cheers phil

Thanks for the reply's and pics!!!
I doubt the nuts would punch through with crush tubes fitted
But yes big washers would be the go aswell

CHEERS TIM.

Originally Posted by harry

don't bother,
here's some pics of my set,

sorry, not puta literate, don't do big pics yet.
if you look at the pics of my set closely, you will see that the weight of the car is taken directly on the beam under the sill, this is no lower than the original plastic side, and the outside has a verticle beam welded to that with the tube rail welded to that, so you can anchor the car to a tree for recoveries with chains or whatever, from the sliders.
i will proudly say we copied and modified d'ranged's design, and changed it to our requirements. justin saved me once and i appreciate the value of the side tubes.
the sliders are bolted to the body with four main tags and also bolted through the lower flange of the body tapped into the lower beam.

Originally Posted by discowhite

i have made numerous sets like this (jock, them sliders are mine) and can say that there is no way in hell that they will break in there fittment and use on a 4x4.

cheers phil

I had a feeling they were made by you. Think I posted the pics up once before.

With the crush tubes, I highly doubt my brother will ever do any 4WDing that will require them besides theres no rocks down here just mud

If I get a chance when he's home sometime I'll make some up though.

Thanks for pointing that out

Originally Posted by discowhite

quite true,,,if the SHS was wafer thin not really possible on 50x50x4SHS.

cheers phil

Not sure what you mean by "wafer thin", or why you think that is relevant anyway. If the amps are turned up high enough, the SHS will distort no matter how thick the wall thickness - 24 years of welding different thickness metal has taught me that. The heaviest piece of metal I have distorted with a single weld is 32 mm plate!

Cheers Charlie