are you having a problem stopping?
Hi there,
I have a 1997 Series 1 Discovery V8i Auto SE. It has solid discs on the front and I wanted to know how hard it is to upgrade these to vented discs. Was thinking of purchasing an upgrade kit from RimmerBros in UK which includes new rotors, calipers, pads etc (330GBP). Had a quote from a LR specialist in Oz at around $1500AUSto put new vented rotors and do a caliper kit only.
Any information is greatly appreciated.
Cheers
C
are you having a problem stopping?
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Ventilated brakes will not improve stopping power by themselves - they will however help reduce brake fad due to overheating during prolonged use.
I never had problems with my D1 brakes even when towing or when being used extensively - if you are having problems then there may be a problem with your current brakes.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I have had issues with my brakes.....and I know I'm not the only one. I had my car in the garage a couple of times to check all the brakes over and they never found a problem.
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
Gary from CLR 4WD Parts (0412 663 751) does a caliper spacer kit and vented rotor upgrade. I'd be going with good quality pads too and make sure the booster is getting good vacuum and is working correctly. Old simple way to test this, pump up the booster with the engine off, then start it holding your foot down. If the pedal sinks, the booster is ok.
Hi Pedro the swift.
Disco is stopping okay apart from pulling to the RHS a bit. Tracking was checked OK, noticed some leakage on the LHS and assuming the caliper is leaking and perhaps the RHS is putting in more pressure thus making it pull that way ?. Have had the calipers etc overhauled before, and for the price I have paid in the past, I would be cheaper getting the kit from the UK. Now I am no mechanic, but not too bad with basic mechanic duties. Is this something I can do myself or should I get a professional to do the job ?
Thanks
C
Thanks for the info Boxer, quick question, how would the pedal sink if your holding your foot down ? I maybe completely missing the jist of this, which is probably the case.
Further explanation would be welcome.
Thanks
C
You can quite easily upgrade to the larger defender calipers on the D1 and rangie classics I've been led to believe. I'll be performing this upgrade when it comes time to get new pads and discs.
On outer limits there is thread covering this but I'll post up the useful bit that is in the faq sectin there:
Edit* When I looked at this it was cheaper to upgrade the calipers than purchase a spacing kit and get the work done. Bonus is you get brand new calipers too. Haven't looked recently though with the current exchange rate.with thanks KiwiBacon.
I've been asked about part numbers for a brake caliper upgrade (46mm pistons instead of the stock 41.3mm ones).
All these brake numbers are from the Paddock Spares website, that's where I got my calipers from.
The ones with "ordered" are the ones I bought and fitted to my rangie. Fantastic upgrade that I recommend to all.
Needed modifications were only plumbing and some grinding to the mounting tabs.
Probably also need to mention that the Defender calipers need 16" rims to fit.
The circuit closest to the firewall on your MC is plumbed to the front brakes, the circuit furtherest from the firewall gets plumbed through the proportioning valve to the rear brakes. You need to block off the extra port in the proportioning valve.
Pads are matched to calipers. You need to buy pads (and retention kit) which fit the new big front calipers.'
They are front brakes only.
__________________________________________________ ________
Front Disc Calipers 90
pre 86 (41.3mm)
RH RTC3380
LH RTC3381
86 - HA701009 (41.3mm)
RH RTC4998
LH RTC4999
HA701010 to KA930455 (46mm)
RH RTC5572
LH RTC5573
LA930456 onwards (46mm)
Solid
LH STC1262
RH STC1263
LA930456 onwards (46mm)
Vented
RH STC1266 ordered
LH STC1267 ordered
__________________________________________________ _________
Front Disc Calipers 110/130
pre 86 Drum Rear
LH AEU2537
RH AEU2538
86-KA930455 Drum Rear
LH RTC5573
RH RTC5572
LA930456 onwards Disc all round
Solid
RH STC1263
LH STC1262
Vented
RH STC1266
LH STC1267
__________________________________________________ ________
Front Disc Calipers RRC
Solid
RH AEU1718
LH AEU1719
Vented - 11mm mounting hole to march 93
RH RTC6776
LH RTC6777
Vented - 12mm mounting hole after march 93
RH STC1283
LH STC1282
__________________________________________________ __________
Rotors
Solid - Fits all requiring solid discs
FRC7329
Vented - Fits all requiring vented discs
FTC902
__________________________________________________ _________
Front Caliper Piston
606683 (Fits All RRC, 90 to HA701009) 41.3mm
STC201 (Fits all 110/130 and 90 from HA701010) 46mm
Front Caliper Seal Kit
AEU1547 Fits 606683 41.3mm
AEU2539 Fits STC201 46mm
I considered doing this but you have to make sure you use top quality discs to avoid problems with premature warping which some vented conversions seem to be prone to. I fitted new OEM solid rotors along with front an rear Greenstuff pads and braided hoses all around to increase the pressure at the pedal. Seems to stop fine and much better than some of the Jap 4wds.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks