yep my 300tdi does it.
Feels like soft engine mounts, but meh, just gotta remember not to be too violent on the pedals
Hello internet enabled 4x4 gurus!
Just got the 94 V8i it's done 170k with a service history the whole way.
Is a general degree of klunkiness what these things are about?
You know, high gear, pump the throttle and you can hear/feel the enormous driveline kerklunking?
Same thing happens in low 1, stab the throttle and she lurches forward and back with a lovely kerklunkiness.
Now is this just a standard feature of these vehicle as they are constant 4x4 or should I be checking something out?
Perhaps at 170K is it time for a CV overhaul or similar? or should I just drive the thing and get over it!?![]()
yep my 300tdi does it.
Feels like soft engine mounts, but meh, just gotta remember not to be too violent on the pedals
Plenty of drive train free play is fairly normal for most coil sprung Landrovers in particular. It may indicate a few specific problems, however, the one that is particularly concerning is wear on the splines of the gearbox mainshaft and its output gear in the transfer case. But note that the effects of transmission free play will be made to appear much worse if the handbrake is dragging, so I would check this - look for the transmission brake drum getting warm after driving, or for signs of oil on it.
Free play on any suspension bushes will also show up as slack in the transmission, and should be fixed, and if free play is apparent in any of the prop shaft U-joints, then this should be fixed immediately, as they are likely to fail with little warning and disastrous results.
Hope this helps,
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
If it is 'kerlunking' from the rear you need might to check out your "A frame" link, the connection from the rear axle to the body. There is a single big locating "bearing" that wears out and clonks when you accellerate and decellerate. Try moving it with a big screwdriver or a jemmy. Any movement, and it needs looking at.
While you're there, take a look at the rubber coupling between the rear diff and drive shaft, as this can cause clunking when worn out.
Look closely with a torch around the bolts to see if any of the rubber is cracked or deteriorated.
If it is, replace it with a new one, around $80.
Since you've just bought it, probably best to replace the diff oils as well.
Good and correct amount of oil will help minimise clunks from the diffs.
...and pump some grease into the uni's and anything else that has a nipple.
thanks I'll get under it and check all of that out armed with the grease gun. (err I mean i'll get geeves under there while I'm out on the fox hunt....)
It's had the 160,000 service which I think was a major one? But I'll check oil levels while I'm under there.
So there is no apparent need to replace anything by default after 170K road going kays?
I can't think of anything that would automatically need replacing at that mileage if properly serviced. Suspension bushes could quite easily be close to needing replacement as could the ball joint on top of the rear axle, but the life of any of these components is very variable depending on the driving conditions encountered - things like how rough the roads, how much wet weather, how fast, what load etc.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Howdy and congrats on the purchase.
In quick time you'll find that you adjust your driving style to allow for the backlash. 170,000km is still very young for a well serviced 94 model. Keep an eye for anything that changes, but as others have said it's the nature of the beast!
Cheers, Mike
Excellent. After driving for a good distance last night I'm getting more tuned into it and it feels great. Full service for the hell of it this weekend.
I'll check those bushes but from what the records indicate I'm pretty 99% sure it's been a road car with a little horse floating in the last 30K.
Apparently it got a new clutch 20K ago too.
Any suggestions on what workshop manual to get?
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