Thread: Hazards stuck on & engine cut out

Originally Posted by anklecurtains

Well lets start with the engine cut out first... about 10% of the time the engine (98 V8 petrol) cuts out and won't let me go over about 1700 rpm. This leaves me with a top speed of ~60kph in top gear and obviously a lot less in the other gears. I could be happily doing 110kph then it just dies and kicks back in when the tacho gets under 1700. Disconnecting the battery sometimes works to get it up & running as normal again but most of the time the problem continues until it decides it better run properly as it senses I'm ready to send it off a cliff.
Is it reverting into a limp mode do you think? No engine light comes on. Low fuel pressure? Air Mass meter? Might need some diagnosis gear hooked up.

Next... speaking of lights, the anti lock light has a mind of its own and so does the trailer indicator light (no trailer, not even a tow bar yet!). Any thoughts on this one? It flashes once as a bulb check when the indicators are used. If you have a bullbar with extra indicators, this can affect it as it thinks the extra load is a trailer.

Next... was driving up a steep road to a lookout and the disco just inched its way up. Foot to the floor would not get the engine spinning, had it in 1st and reckon I could've got out & walked faster. Engine was like in idle. Got to the top, had a feed but then it wouldn't start... nothing. Thought it might have been the immobiliser but the little red key on the dash wasn't on. Locked/unlocked doors etc nothing worked. Used the spare key and hey presto! Turned it off, used original key... bingo! Wife is now telling me that she wants new car etc blah blah. But wait, there's more. Related to lack of power above but was there anything electrical at the lookout that could have caused interference?

Next... an hour later when travelling down a corrugated dirt road I hit a bit of a pothole and the hazard lights came on and couldn't be switched off except for disconnecting the battery. I took out the fuse (driving at night) but could still hear the "tick-tick" of the hazards.
Got home, found the source of the noise under the glove-box amongst all the wiring in the little green box (lucas 5rxa receiver - whatever that is). Disconnected everything from it and it shorted out on my finger. Had a new module sent from Triumph Rover Spares in SA with a fob and this seemed to fix it.
Someone seemed to think the jolt of the pothole set off the alarm and this was the hazards, but there was no horn accompanying the hazards. It's just the inertia switch that was tripped.

I love my car, warts and all but now SWMBO refers to it as our lemon and if these issues continue I might end up driving a Daewoo Captiva!
HEEEELLLP!!

Hope that helps.

Further to Scouse's comments about the trailer indicator, replace your bullbar globes with 5W ones (less than the standard wattage) and the problem will disappear.

The fuel cut off switch is behind the windscreen washer bottle on the firewall. If that is tripped it cuts the fuel and activates the hazards.
I've read that potholes can make it play up.

Press it and see what happens.

Check ALL your earth points.

Originally Posted by Utemad

The fuel cut off switch is behind the windscreen washer bottle on the firewall. If that is tripped it cuts the fuel and activates the hazards.
I've read that potholes can make it play up.

Press it and see what happens.

And after you have pressed it close the bonnet, lock the car with the remote wait, wait a bit more, (usually walking around the car three times is about the right time) then unlock the car and all should be clear.

Happened to me on stockton beach once after a bit of a bump.

Tom, I was "happy" to see your post, only because I have one of the same annoying problems you are experiencing, but without the hazards flashing portion. Driving along, engine will cut-out and restart on its own once the revs drop below 1700, BUT once this happens you cannot exceed 1700 rpm's or it will cutout again. The 'cure' is (and this is the exciting part), to turn off the ignition whilst rolling along, then wait about 10 seconds until you can hear a relay (from under the passenger seat) 'click' as it recycles. Once that happens, you can successfully restart the engine and exceed 1700 rpm's but only for what appears to be about 1 to 2 minutes before the whole crazy cycle of cutting out above 1700 starts all over again!?#@!!

I am open to any and all suggestions. I bought a whole bag of relays of eBay in the hopes of troubleshooting with those since it does appear to be relay related somehow. Also, my vehicle is a 1994 Range Rover LWB 4.2 New poster, I, but long-time Rover'r. I spent two years living in Oz, back iin the States now. I spent two months once driving the coast in a 67 109 5-door filled with camp gear bought at the Bondi Beach Kmart...17 yr. old cute cashier looks at my gear on the conveyor, leans across the counter and whispers.."I'll give ya the employee discount!"...my introduction to Oz.

Just recently got back from doing the Gunbarrel Highway and got so sick of resetting the hazard lights that I would just leave them to flash all day and reset them when I stopped at night or for a coffee break, I do believe mine come on easier now han ever.
cheers
blaze