Thread: 300 TDi Cutting out after 40 mins of driving

Thanks for the vote of confidence justin. I'm feeling pretty confident this could be it.

The bubble thats formed in the inside of the pipe holds air pressure when you squeese it. I'm thinking that it could be inflating at freeway speeds through air pressure and heat/air expansion and completly block flow. If the bubble reaches the opposite wall it will pneumatically lock sealing off the pipe due to the vacuum from the intake. Explains the waiting 20 mins (as it naturally deflates). I'm guessing that the starting and dying could be put down to enough air in the pipes to start the engine but the bubble blockage preventing flow stalling it.

Thanks for the tip on the spade connector Rick. I've given them a good clean to be sure.

Ordered new pipes from our friends at British 4WD in tassie. I'll let you know how it all goes.

BIG sigh of relief. It was that bloody 90 degree turbo hose. All fixed now. A big 1 hour test run down the freeway confirmed it. Much more bang for my buck too. Must have been on its way out for a while.

Can i add that my hose from British 4WD in Tassie arrived in Brisbane within 24 hours of ordering it. Brilliant service.

Thanks for all your help guys. Really appreciate it.

Hi there, just new to the forum. After trying to solve the problem my self I have come to you to see if you can help me. I have 1998 Discovery tdi manual.

I have a similar problem where the engine dies. It varies from 40mins to 5 mins. I wait a couple of mins and it starts ok but then it might die straight away. I am so frustrated that I have spent the last 4 months on my days off trying to figure it out. I have tried replacing the relays but no sucess. If I turn the key on & off a fair amount of times it sometimes fixes it and other times it does nothing. It really is giving me the ****s. I have attached a volt meter to the fuel shutoff solenoid and can see that it slowly loses voltage from an average of 13.6V down to 9.8V before it shuts the engine off. There are times where it will run fine for months and then on a daily basis it shuts down (Usually in heavy traffic).

I have read on this forum about the SPIDER but don't know where it fits into the system. Is it inside the immobiliser housing? What is the easiest way to bypass this menace to TDi300 owners?

PLEASE HELP.

Much appreciated.

PS: I'll continue to look in this here and see if I have missed something..

Originally Posted by luke68

Hi there, just new to the forum. After trying to solve the problem my self I have come to you to see if you can help me. I have 1998 Discovery tdi manual.

I have a similar problem where the engine dies. It varies from 40mins to 5 mins. I wait a couple of mins and it starts ok but then it might die straight away. I am so frustrated that I have spent the last 4 months on my days off trying to figure it out. I have tried replacing the relays but no sucess. If I turn the key on & off a fair amount of times it sometimes fixes it and other times it does nothing. It really is giving me the ****s. I have attached a volt meter to the fuel shutoff solenoid and can see that it slowly loses voltage from an average of 13.6V down to 9.8V before it shuts the engine off. There are times where it will run fine for months and then on a daily basis it shuts down (Usually in heavy traffic).

I have read on this forum about the SPIDER but don't know where it fits into the system. Is it inside the immobiliser housing? What is the easiest way to bypass this menace to TDi300 owners?

PLEASE HELP.

Much appreciated.

PS: I'll continue to look in this here and see if I have missed something..

Have you checked the power lead to the injection pump cutoff solenoid ?, these get dirty and the spade connector loses clamping pressure thus being intermittent, also could be your lift pump. disconnect the fuel hose from the lift pump to the injector pump and see if its squirting under pressure when you hit the key.

I have have done all the checks and cleaned the connector to the solenoid. Still happening. I was tempted to pull out the solenoid to see if it was the problem but decided to try the electrics first after talking to LandRover.
strange thing happened the other day. I washed the diso, guess what : no problems for a week. I'll be hitting the books to see if I can gleem anything from the wonderfully helpful ( Crap) Land Rover manual or the Haynes book.
It's Definately electrical. I can hear something that sounds like a relay clicking on/off behind the radio/heater when I turn the key on/off. How easy is it to get to the SPIDER? do I need to remove all of the heater or can I get to it from the side?

cheers.

Why do the Poms persist on using Lucas electrics, don't they know everyone around the world hates them!!!
Anyway, just pulled the radio & heater out from the dash to get to the SPIDER. 1/2 hour later it's out and I had a close look at the circuit board and guess what. One of the solder joints was crap (Dry solder?). Cleaned it up re-soldered and fingers crossed all is well. Went to work and back (Approx 20 mins each way ) and no problems. voltage at the shutoff solenoid stays at 13.6V when cold and drops to 13.43V when engine hot. Before this it would vary from 13.3 to 12.4V Will keep you updated.

Cheers luke

This solder joint and the other one in the windows ECU are not dry solders.
The ground from this problem is that these component pins are made from bronze. This material surface should be covered by copper before to be final covered with tin. If not, after ten years working with direct current there is a delamination from tin and we suffer this contact fault. By resoldering, we correct this problem for the next ten years.
So PCB production was OK, in-board relay was not good quality.

Regards
German

I have a 98 300tdi Discovery and over the past couple days have suffered a similar fault. Whilst driving the motor will cut out but kick into life again within either a second or a few seconds by itself. This occurs both under load or whilst cruising.

Tomorrow i will check the wiring to the fuel pump, clean it and re clamp it tightly... i hope this is the result. Just thought i would through my thoughts in here as i noticed none of you guys mentioned the motor would kick back into life by itself...

James.