Thread: Hub Seal Leaking

its pretty easy i have done mine, the hub seal is about $10 and if the bearings are ok then just clean them and re grease them, the hub seal is on the back of the disc so you'll ned to take it off to fit the hub seal

Originally Posted by **Joker**

Hello all,

just noticed that my right hand side hub seal is leaking oh very slowly, i'm sure its called a hub seal its where that massive ball like thing is on the inside of the wheel..., sorry not very mechanical minded....is that a big problem to worry about??????

Being underfunded at the moment (Story of my life) i'm thinking on doing the job myself....is it a big job??? so what would i need as in tools and the actual seal its self, how much do they go for????

cheers simon

Good onya Simon, give it a go. I am going to do my S3 seals and I am not very mech minded either. (read no idea) I decided I will do the bearings too while I'm there. Different job on the Series 3 but can't be all that hard.

Get a manual (or CD) and the right tools and take your time.

There is always the panic post here if you stuff it up. hehehehe.....

Originally Posted by Sleepy

Good onya Simon, give it a go. I am going to do my S3 seals and I am not very mech minded either. (read no idea) I decided I will do the bearings too while I'm there. Different job on the Series 3 but can't be all that hard.

Get a manual (or CD) and the right tools and take your time.

There is always the panic post here if you stuff it up. hehehehe.....

Cheers Paul i reckon i'll need that damm panic post....everytime i try to do something myself IT GOES WRONG!!! LOL

Originally Posted by dirtdawg

its pretty easy i have done mine, the hub seal is about $10 and if the bearings are ok then just clean them and re grease them, the hub seal is on the back of the disc so you'll ned to take it off to fit the hub seal

LoL nothing is easy mate when i get on the tools!!!

So is there anything else i should know of, anything special!!!!!!

How can ya tell if the bearings are shot, most likely i will changed them to, OR attempt tp anyway!!!lol

you'll know as soon as you see them also look at the bearing racers for wear then you'll know if you need to do them, last time i bought bearings they were about $20 each

Originally Posted by dirtdawg

you'll know as soon as you see them also look at the bearing racers for wear then you'll know if you need to do them, last time i bought bearings they were about $20 each

wow really I just paid 140bux for set 37 and 4 oil seals......either I got ripped or you haven't changed your bearings in a very long time

Hi Simon.

If the thing you describe is on the INSIDE of the wheel assembly inboard of the "big shiny ball thing" and is about 150mm in diameter held in place by a retainer with about 6 small screws.....

IT'S THE SWIVEL SEAL, not hub seal.

Have you got a RAVE1 CD? Check out the front axle section to see the beast.

I do it like this..

Jack up the side to repair and axle stand it. Wheel off. Brake caliper off and wire it up out of the way. Remove the brake line retaining clip - it's under one of the top bolts. Only remove the one, and when it's out, move the brake line and replace the bolt. Tie rod end(s) off (try not to tear the boot!).

The next bit is a bit fiddly. I'll just say remove the seven double hex bolts which attach the hub and swivel housing assembly to the axle. Others will have "just the tool". I think it's been talked about before, so a search will do some good. The bolts are #@!$ tight, so crack them all before you attempt to pull any of them out. I use a 14mm double hex SnapOn ratchet spanner and sometimes a plastic hammer to break the Loctite 243 on the bolt's thread.

The whole assembly, axle included, can be removed in its entirety. Very heavy, so be careful. Invert the complete assembly into the wheel so the axle points upwards. It's a good way off keeping everything safe and stable.

Clean off the offending article so no sheizer can fall into the CV space, remove the bolts on the retaining ring, then lift off the ring. Pry out the old seal, replace it using a smear of gasket sealant on the outside of the new one and reassemble the whole shooting match. Engage the axle in the diff centre. You'll find that a small jack will help you manouevre the assembly whlle you start the fixings into the axle housing - remember that you have start them all, then wind them all in, then tension them

I'm assuming that the swivel is "oneshot" grease filled. If not, drain the lube oil from the swivel before you pull the assembly off, and refill with 80/90 gear oil after you complete the job.

Make sure that the mating flanges are perfectly clean and use a new gasket when you replace the assembly. Use a smear of sealant both sides of the paper gasket as well. Use Loctite 243 on the bolts, after cleaning them on a buff or with wire brush.

Hope this might be of some help. Even for a novice, if you have some decent tools, it ought to take about, say, three hours. This method means you don't have to completely disassemble the front hub and swivel.

Costs about $25 for seal, $5 for gasket. Consumables - 243, sealant.

Cheers

Pete

Originally Posted by dullbird

wow really I just paid 140bux for set 37 and 4 oil seals......either I got ripped or you haven't changed your bearings in a very long time

last time i bought bearings was prob about 4 months ago