Thread: un-marked injection pump

What is not right and why do you think it is because of pump adjustment?

Have you an EGT gauge fitted?

Have you got a boost pressure gauge?

Have you checked the timing of the injection pump and camshaft?

Have you checked valve clearance and the shims on top of the valve stems?

Have you checked fuel system sedimentor and filter?

Have you checked all fuel lines for leaks or possibility of sucking air?

Have you checked that the fuel lift pump is operating correctly?

Have you checked all hoses for leaks, including hoses between compressor and intercooler, between intercooler and inlet manifold, between compressor and wastegate actuator, and between compressor and boost compensator on fuel injection pump?

Have you checked inside all hoses between aircleaner and compresor, between compressor and intercooler, and between intercooler and inlet manifold?

Have you checked that the intercooler is clean inside?

Have you checked that the intercooler external fins are not blocked by mud, insects, grass seeds etc?

What is you engine oil consumption like?

Is there any noticeable play in the turbo shaft indicating worn bearings?

How easy does the engine start, e.g. 1/2, 1, or several turns of crankshaft?

No point adjusting pump to try and overcome a problem elsewhere.

It is just as easy to adjust a pump that has no marks as one with marks. But difficult to put back to stock settings - a diesel fuel injection shop can put all of the calibrations to within stock limits (they would have the right equipment and Bosch documents).

You need a boost pressure gauge, EGT gauge, suitable size screwdrivers and a big hill. Also good to have an observer who can drive behind you to check exhaust smoke. The engine must be at normal operating temperature.

My procedure is to adjust the maximum boost setting 1st. If not done 1st, the other adjustments will increase/decrease when the fuel pin is adjusted, and will have to be adjusted again after the maximum boost setting is correct.

Check marks in grease on the fuel pin to confirm that it is travelling to the maximum setting - if not remove plastic spacer from fuel pin. Install the fuel pin at the maximum fuel setting of the eccentric cone. Then test run to check egt and smoke on a big hill. Make sure that the turbo is making maximum boost and back off if the EGT is heading too high. If the EGT was too high, or it was blowing black smoke at full boost and load, then rotate the fuel pin to reduce fuel and check again.

When fuel at maximum boost is correct, note exactly where the fuel pin is (because it has to be removed to adjust the star wheel) and proceed to the star wheel adjustment. This adjusts how much fuel is delivered at mid boost levels.

Check for black smoke while accelerating up hill and boost pressure is climbing, but not peaked. A little puff of smoke is ok, but if it is excessive, wind the star wheel up.

If no black smoke, wind the star wheel down and check again on the same test hill - you are looking for improved acceleration at same conditions, but no excess black smoke.

When that is right, adjust the stop screw for the fuel pin. This is the torx screw on top. It adjusts the fuel at no boost pressure. Check for black smoke when taking off from a standstill and before boost pressure starts to build. A puff of black smoke is ok. If excessive, turn the screw out. if none turn screw in by 1/2 turn at a time and re-test. You are looking for improved acceleration from standstill and only a puff of smoke.

Originally Posted by pastr

Hello

Every one is talking about marking the diaphragm, mark the star, mark the T27
I got the car with every thing was out of the original position and the car wasn't in its best.
How can I adjust the pump to be in is best.

I'm talking about disco 300Tdi 97

Like John says, you want to make sure everything else is in tip-top condition before you start 'adjusting'. Frankly, unless you know exactly what you're doing with the pump, I'd leave it to the experts!

M

Originally Posted by Bush65

What is not right and why do you think it is because of pump adjustment?

Have you an EGT gauge fitted? no, will put one

Have you got a boost pressure gauge? yes, O.K. 1bar

Have you checked the timing of the injection pump and camshaft? question about this down under

Have you checked valve clearance and the shims on top of the valve stems? yes, O.K

Have you checked fuel system sedimentor and filter? yes, O.K

Have you checked all fuel lines for leaks or possibility of sucking air? yes, O.K

Have you checked that the fuel lift pump is operating correctly? yes,O.K

Have you checked all hoses for leaks, including hoses between compressor and intercooler, between intercooler and inlet manifold, between compressor and wastegate actuator, and between compressor and boost compensator on fuel injection pump?yes,O.K

Have you checked inside all hoses between aircleaner and compresor, between compressor and intercooler, and between intercooler and inlet manifold?yes, O.K

Have you checked that the intercooler is clean inside?Yes, new big one infront the rad.

Have you checked that the intercooler external fins are not blocked by mud, insects, grass seeds etc?yes. O.K

What is you engine oil consumption like? more then O.K

Is there any noticeable play in the turbo shaft indicating worn bearings?No, new, 6 month

How easy does the engine start, e.g. 1/2, 1, or several turns of crankshaft? 1/2

No point adjusting pump to try and overcome a problem elsewhere.

It is just as easy to adjust a pump that has no marks as one with marks. But difficult to put back to stock settings - a diesel fuel injection shop can put all of the calibrations to within stock limits (they would have the right equipment and Bosch documents).

You need a boost pressure gauge, EGT gauge, suitable size screwdrivers and a big hill. Also good to have an observer who can drive behind you to check exhaust smoke. The engine must be at normal operating temperature.

My procedure is to adjust the maximum boost setting 1st. If not done 1st, the other adjustments will increase/decrease when the fuel pin is adjusted, and will have to be adjusted again after the maximum boost setting is correct.

Check marks in grease on the fuel pin to confirm that it is travelling to the maximum setting - if not remove plastic spacer from fuel pin. Install the fuel pin at the maximum fuel setting of the eccentric cone. Then test run to check egt and smoke on a big hill. Make sure that the turbo is making maximum boost and back off if the EGT is heading too high. If the EGT was too high, or it was blowing black smoke at full boost and load, then rotate the fuel pin to reduce fuel and check again.

When fuel at maximum boost is correct, note exactly where the fuel pin is (because it has to be removed to adjust the star wheel) and proceed to the star wheel adjustment. This adjusts how much fuel is delivered at mid boost levels.

Check for black smoke while accelerating up hill and boost pressure is climbing, but not peaked. A little puff of smoke is ok, but if it is excessive, wind the star wheel up.

If no black smoke, wind the star wheel down and check again on the same test hill - you are looking for improved acceleration at same conditions, but no excess black smoke.

When that is right, adjust the stop screw for the fuel pin. This is the torx screw on top. It adjusts the fuel at no boost pressure. Check for black smoke when taking off from a standstill and before boost pressure starts to build. A puff of black smoke is ok. If excessive, turn the screw out. if none turn screw in by 1/2 turn at a time and re-test. You are looking for improved acceleration from standstill and only a puff of smoke.

Sorry to be so late, army staff!
Most of the things I have answered.
1.question: when the injection pump is rebuild, the leading rod has no wedge to bring it to the original and same position. Due-to that, the adjustment is changing.
Every disassembly makes it with different position.
After the entire question you have asked, I'll do the adjusting you have said.
Thanks