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Thread: Clutch Fork Trauma Clinic

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Clutch Fork Trauma Clinic

    Sooo about 20k ago on the odometer the cook is driving her (my old) 300TDi and the clutch goes all the way to the floor for no result. Ok. Tow her home and it's the clutch fork doing it's "I will collapse on you" trick.

    Good trick that one.

    While I've got the box out (yes, in the driveway like everyone else with this disease) I throw a new clutch in coz hey, you're already in that world of pain anyway.

    Ok, go forward 20k and the Beast decides to get weird in the clutch department again. Get her home with very little engaging travel on the clutch pedal (read as 'zilch') and after swapping the tired slave cylinder, she is still r@#ted. Poop, not the slave.

    Next to get unbolted is the master cylinder and crap, it looks pretty good. So stuff this methinks, I've got a business to run and this is losing its fun factor.

    Down to Triumph Rover Spares me goes and Phil (resident champ) tells me they rarely see the masters go and mine looks pretty good. Mr Denial here says to himself "Dammit!" and gets the beast towed to Phil Land and he can sort it out. Yep, never want to drop that gear box in that or any other driveway again, but thanks for the opportunity Beasty Disco Machine.

    Final Verdict: the stinking clutch fork has crapped itself despite being a new one (20k ago at least) AND despite being reinforced with some discrete plate weld. "I'll be stuffed!" I say as I talk to myself once more.

    The purpose of this post is to maybe help some other sucker like me who thought that would be the end of it the first time and is diagnosing potentials for clutch problems. The upside however is that TRS have shown themselves to be one of THE best mobs I have yet dealt with. Phil is mega helpful and has told me all the little things it would be a good idea to sort out like the original coolant tank that is prone to splitting and giving you a very bad engine day. Cannot rave about them enough but I haven't got a bill until tomorrow....

    Ok, enough of this... we will be keeping the D1 300TDi until she finally carks it and decide next year whether to swap over the D2 TD5 (did I mention that disease yet?). These Discos really do get under your skin alright.

    Just need to decide whether to stick with the D1 (for the further off road/trip away stuff) which still feels like it wants to conquer the world, or go further down the TD5 D2 path which has a sweet motor but is like the Queen Mary in comparison... and those Amigos.

    Cheers to all.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mully View Post
    Sooo about 20k ago on the odometer the cook is driving her (my old) 300TDi and the clutch goes all the way to the floor for no result. Ok. Tow her home and it's the clutch fork doing it's "I will collapse on you" trick.

    Good trick that one.

    While I've got the box out (yes, in the driveway like everyone else with this disease) I throw a new clutch in coz hey, you're already in that world of pain anyway.

    Ok, go forward 20k and the Beast decides to get weird in the clutch department again. Get her home with very little engaging travel on the clutch pedal (read as 'zilch') and after swapping the tired slave cylinder, she is still r@#ted. Poop, not the slave.

    Next to get unbolted is the master cylinder and crap, it looks pretty good. So stuff this methinks, I've got a business to run and this is losing its fun factor.

    Down to Triumph Rover Spares me goes and Phil (resident champ) tells me they rarely see the masters go and mine looks pretty good. Mr Denial here says to himself "Dammit!" and gets the beast towed to Phil Land and he can sort it out. Yep, never want to drop that gear box in that or any other driveway again, but thanks for the opportunity Beasty Disco Machine.

    Final Verdict: the stinking clutch fork has crapped itself despite being a new one (20k ago at least) AND despite being reinforced with some discrete plate weld. "I'll be stuffed!" I say as I talk to myself once more.

    The purpose of this post is to maybe help some other sucker like me who thought that would be the end of it the first time and is diagnosing potentials for clutch problems. The upside however is that TRS have shown themselves to be one of THE best mobs I have yet dealt with. Phil is mega helpful and has told me all the little things it would be a good idea to sort out like the original coolant tank that is prone to splitting and giving you a very bad engine day. Cannot rave about them enough but I haven't got a bill until tomorrow....

    Ok, enough of this... we will be keeping the D1 300TDi until she finally carks it and decide next year whether to swap over the D2 TD5 (did I mention that disease yet?). These Discos really do get under your skin alright.

    Just need to decide whether to stick with the D1 (for the further off road/trip away stuff) which still feels like it wants to conquer the world, or go further down the TD5 D2 path which has a sweet motor but is like the Queen Mary in comparison... and those Amigos.

    Cheers to all.
    Agree that TRS and Phil particular is very helpful, BUT I never weld my clutch forks as the process of welding them IMHO weakens the material and hastens failure.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    agreed, While I weld them up I dont go for any of the Arc type processes, I prefer to braze a backup plate into position.

    that said

    if its a repair job on an existing faild unit, I get very very heavy handed with MR Mig.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #4
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    My clutch fork did this "trick" when the odometer was marking 190.000km.
    I tried the way in which last RAVE revision indicates to make the clutch job, this is, removing the engine, and, as the "technical director" was the owner (myself) I decided not to change anything more than the fork, and to lubricate the point with molytex.
    As the new fork is a "Britpart" reinforced one, I hope almost it will last until the complete clutch, crankshaft seal, gearbox, etc. will be enough weared to need change. Until now it was running for 10.000km more and all is ok.
    I think that if You have necessary stuff to support the engine, it´s easier to make it in this way.
    Regards

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Agree that TRS and Phil particular is very helpful, BUT I never weld my clutch forks as the process of welding them IMHO weakens the material and hastens failure.

    JC
    ^^^^^^X2^^^^^^
    Welding only increases the chance of it happening again
    Wow i have got to agree with you on this one JC

  6. #6
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    Well, you can keep stuffing around with these things, or get an auto
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
    Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/

  7. #7
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    Yeah I was concerned about welding for all those reasons and actuallly used a large washer and welded away from the point of contact... but it still failed. Will have to agree that it is not the way to go and the replacement ones now apparently are ok. Fingers crossed.

    The cook picked up the Beast today and is stoked.... like new again. Danke TRS. Best thing is... someone else did it all!!

    .. now as for the auto comment... nearly went that path with the TD5 and drove a few but couldn't get used to the 'sluggish' feel compared to the manual. Was ok but it needed a bit of boot to get up and boogie. Maybe next Disco though...

    Hugs all round people.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    ^^^^^^X2^^^^^^
    Welding only increases the chance of it happening again
    Wow i have got to agree with you on this one JC


    Might have to archive this post Chris


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #9
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    My V8 D1 has done 235 000 (around abouts) I replace the clutch about 50 000 ago. Never had a problem with the fork, but recently snapped the pivot bolt.
    As for dropping the box, well, when the clutch went I did it on the lawn of the holiday house (where I now live) It was dificult, as I was a Disco GB virgin. Then My TC crapped itself on my way to work. Dropped that in the driveway at work, too easy.
    THEN my clutch pivot bolt sheared, dropped the box in the garage, too easy this time.
    Important things to remember when doing this,
    1. It's a 2 week job (work , family, study)
    2. Drop the TC first. So much easier in 2 x parts
    3. Have a good trolley jack on hand as well as your usual bottle jack
    4. Don't forget to pull the consol first to get to the top 3 x bellhousing bolts
    5. have a good supply of alcohol on hand and a decent selection of music

    Almost forgot number 6. remove the mount attached to drivers side of the TC first, it gives you so much more leeway.

    I hope that helps someone somewhere.

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