Thread: What suspension lift height does tailshaft vibration occur?

er 2 inches.

Regards Philip A

Where are you going to be trailering your car to that would necessitate the need for a 4 inch lift?

2 inches is about the limit...

after that you need to start thinking about a whole host of other things other than drive line vibe.

2" of lift will cater for 33" tyres on a D1 providing you have cut guards, flares and -1" offset rims if using wider than 245 tyres. 33" is bearable on a V8 without lowering gearing but be more worried about stressing standard driveline components, not to mention running a tyre >3" in diam over legal. You might find the front at a tad less than 2" suspension lift is preferable as it leaves some contingency for front shaft alignment issues, front shaft / cross member clearance and change to castor angle.

However if you are chasing > 2" then do 2" in suspension lift and balance with a body lift. There are no steering or driveline issues with a body lift and the increase centre of gravity is minimised compared to the suspension part of the total lift.

If you are from QLD be aware 2" is max body lift and approval must be obtained from DOT first and then inspected when works complete. This means engineered body lifts are preferable however locally engineered 2" lift kits are hard to find. I have heard that DOT set up inspection points from time to time to enforce this rule.

Thanks for the replies also great info there cockie55.

After further consideration have decided to go for the 2in lift.

Just liked the look of 4in lift I’ve seen on other cars, plus the extra height to help with the load of 4 lge adults a couple of kids, gear, accessories and sometimes towing a boat, HD springs could probably help with this tho.

I think my suspension might be sagging a little also, at present car height from hub centre to guard is FD 440mm, FP 440, RD 455, RP 465.

Anybody know what the standard height from hub to guard should be?

Cheers,

Dave

Thats the mindset of jap 4wd drivers, a D1 with 2" lift and say 32/33" tyres will get you pretty much anywhere you would want to take a car full of family members. My springs are 3" but that was not by choice, they just happen to give that much lift when fitted.

What are these other things people keep talking about with a 4in lift ?
((thinking about a whole host of other things ))

can we lable these things as i am very keen to go up to 4in, because i am sick of a 2in lift, its way to low.

New front drive shaft with uni's ???
Caster corection radius arms??
Adjustable panhard rod ???

what ells is there?

Originally Posted by jezz

What are these other things people keep talking about with a 4in lift ?
((thinking about a whole host of other things ))

can we lable these things as i am very keen to go up to 4in, because i am sick of a 2in lift, its way to low.

New front drive shaft with uni's ???
Caster corection radius arms??
Adjustable panhard rod ???

what ells is there?

For 35" tyres

the 3 things you have identified plus

angle corrected trailing arms
extended brake lines,
upgraded brakes to range rover specks
2" body lift
flares
-25mm off set rims
4.11 crown wheel and pinion (ashcroft, Les Richmond)
upgraded axles (ashcroft, maxi or Les Richmond)

I have looked at the 3 ways to fix the death wobbles that the spring lift created due to the caster angle being put out of wack,

offset bushes: cheapest, but because one side of the bush being thinner than the other I assume it is not as robust,
Elongating the swivel hub bolt holes: fixes the caster angle but not the drive shaft angle,
Caster corrected radius arms: fixes everything

and most importantly, engineer approval for it all.

Not a cheap exersize but if done correctly well worth it. (I am looking at doing exactly that)