Reply With QuoteYou will get reemed if you are in an ON ROAD accident..Originally Posted by bee utey
Master
You have a number of aftermarket ignition module options for D1’s noting pre 94 update model the amp was located on the distributer and post update located away from heat beside the coil. I have also added some matching coil info as ideally the 2 should really be changed as a pair, funds permitting.
1. Using a Bosch BIM 024 ignition amp conversion as devised by bee utey for the demands of gas. This is a great low cost option as this amp new is cheap to purchase and was (with matching coils) in most Fords and Commodores in period 81 -88 plus Magnas and Camrays through to 94. The advantage of this alternative is you can swap out your OEM coil to something cheaper and arguably better.
2 The following are Plug and Play aftermarket units and match up the OEM coils which were either Lucas or later on Bosch units. The advantage of these is they are plug and play and the remote mounting plate/heat sink is used to fix very securely the rubber booted 2 pin plug coming from the dizzy (underneath and not shown in pics with 3 wires, 2 via the rubber plug and one being a ground mounted to the plate). Disadvantages are a bit more expensive and maybe not as good as the BIM 024 for gas, however that is bee utey’s territory.
a) Tridon TIM044 Australian made and which Bursons carry for about $100.
b) Automotive Ignition & Electronics in Brisbane Automotive Ignition and Electronics - Home import both a 2 pin (Pic 1) and 3 pin (pic 2) versions mainly for the trade but they do sell to the public. They sell these amps for $99.00 retail. Note while it may be a 3 pin plug on the coil harness for the remote amp style, only 2 pins are active.
c) You will find probably at your local LR specialist and on-line a number places in UK and US that sell aftermarket LR amp modules and some come with 3 pin plug adaptors for those with an existing 2 plug setup. I have had no experience with these.
d) A Lucas OEM coil will cost about $80 however Bosch are arguably better however a Bosch OEM coil (# 0 221 122 392) is a ridiculous $240 plus in Australia but 1/3 that in UK and US? Go figure? Working on the theory of getting rid of more things Lucas the better, I am currently trialing a older barrel style oil filled HEI coil made by Bosch (the BIC290 that I am assured works with LR OEM and aftermarket amps and can be found in Lasers, Sigmas and some Mazdas) to economise the plug and play amp module alternative. The BIC290 is only $35 new and apparently works so well to the extent it is used by some high end EFI V8 specialists instead of big name coils.
As a side note I have found LR amps to die slowly to the extent you don’t know anything is wrong until possibly the first symptom being a quick misfire occurring out of the blue. If your fuel mileage is a bit ordinary (say < 100 Klm / 20 litres) and you have checked out all the usual suspects with no problem, then a ignition amp on the way out may be the culprit.
You will get reemed if you are in an ON ROAD accident..
Master
Thanks cockie55 for your very informative and useful information.I am presently running a 3.9 V8 from a 98 discovery 1 in my 86 rangie and had no problems yet but fuel mileage has dropped on gas in the last 12 months quite a bit,I wonder if that could be part of the problem.Do the 98 model 3.9's have any problem's. with their ignition system.
AT REST
Certainly, could not agree more, if you want to be legally unsafe buy a car made that way... there are plenty of cars without ABS to choose from.
countless... still cant bypass the abs though... anyways.. later model the disco the better in the series one
Master
SupporterMine's a 95 V8 auto, no major issues since new. Engine and efi very reliable IME. Only ever changed TPS and vac advance module (apart from normal service items like leads, plugs, of course). And the spider naturally.
Curling dash early on was fixed by LR under warranty.
I wanted one with no airbags, no ABS, no lpg. Runs Kings springs, Bilsteins, 8 inch wheels. Rear axle seal needed replacing due to a leak, new ront swivel bearings and rear donut. Nothing too drastic.
Other upgrades include custom freeflow exhaust, Scorcher dissy and new auto trans cooler pipes.
Looks good, sounds good and goes good, especially with auto behind the V8. Only downside is fuel consumption but I live close to work and when fuel goes up over $1.50/litre I leave the Disco at home and use the Mini.
Fossicker
If you dont want abs pull out the fuse... i did
Wizard
SupporterI might keep a blown fuse to put in. That way it's a fault and there for would not get reamed by insurance if something happens.
Cheers, David.
My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.
Master
Did you get with the 3.9 its dizzy/amp and ECU etc or did you reuse the old Rangie Dizzy and amp? If the latter and as you are on gas I would look at bee utey's proven remote Bosch BIM024 ignition amp / new coil swap out. If the former and you have ignition system inc remote amp that came with the 3.9 then a new plug and play amp would suffice, but again as your running gas I would use bee utey's swap out as it is cheap and very effective it seems and disposes of one thing that could behind your gas mileage problem.
AT REST
I have bought a BIC290 and will try it on a conversion soon. Trouble is even though the box says Bosch all over it there's no branding on the coil or parts label, looks like a Chinese cheapie! Never mind, if it works its all good.
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