Thread: Disco 2 front propshaft grease points

The grease point on the sliding splines has a grub screw in it and shouldn't be covered by any rubber boot. Maybe the grub screw is covered by dirt and you simply missed spotting it.
Mine (2001) only has a small push on rubber boot, about 20 -25mm long, with no clips and it doesn't cover the greasing point.
The grease point is directly above the cross member and I think that the nipple is not left in as on full suspension droop the shaft comes pretty close to the cross member.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

The grease point on the sliding splines has a grub screw in it and shouldn't be covered by any rubber boot. Maybe the grub screw is covered by dirt and you simply missed spotting it.
Mine (2001) only has a small push on rubber boot, about 20 -25mm long, with no clips and it doesn't cover the greasing point.
The grease point is directly above the cross member and I think that the nipple is not left in as on full suspension droop the shaft comes pretty close to the cross member.

Thanks Roger
My rubber boot is about 80mm long and has radiator hose type clamps at each end. Guess I need to pull it off and see what lies beneath. If the grease point is in approx same position as the rear spline one its underneath the boot. Can't use the cross member as much of a guide as it has undergone rock therapy
Cheers
Paul
2005 disco2 td5 auto

OK - Slightly different setup to the earlier ones.
If the clamps on the boot are similar to the ones used on CV Boots then they are reusable - use a screwdriver to undo them by putting the screwdriver sideways where the clamp section is and then twist the screwdriver. Once you hace released the clamp - only need to do one end of boot - you should then be able to slide the boot back to reveal the grease point. refitting the clamp is a bit more difficult but should be OK with pliers or multigrips - once youve got it off you'll see how they work. A pair of my grandfathers old nail pincers were ideal for refitting those type of clamps.

Thanks again mate. Do you think replacing the existing clamps with the different "radiator hose" type to make things easier & quicker in future would be enough to cause unbalance issues?
Cheers
Paul
2005 disco2 td5 auto

"radiator hose" type clamps might be OK provided you offset the clamp sections by 180deg. Make sure you mark everything before disassembly so you correctly align it all on reassembly.

Discolaw
Mine is exactly the same as yours.As mine is still under extended warranty,i haven't done much service on it,it has gone to a LR specialist.I recon the slide joint is possibly sealed for life,those clamps are still on,& have to be destroyed to be removed.

Had my front double joint rebuilt with greasable type as precautionary measure,& they left the slide joint as it was from new.
I would leave it alone until we hear from someone who knows about them.

The earlier D2 i had was different,had a grub screw that you took out & fitted a nipple to grease it,as others have said.

I will have a look in the morning & if i find something i will post up,but i am pretty sure i have looked before & couldn't find anything.

Earth to JC...........or anyone who works on these often....

I have the same as what you're saying Scarry. Recently had the double cardan replaced with greasable joints by Hardie Spicer in Kal, and still have the grub screw where a nipple can be inserted in the slide section.

Mine's an '02 TD5 manual.

Oh no.....not another L/R propshaft "sealed for life" part. Not a comforting thought. Looks like it might just be in the D2a, the last run of the model. If it is sealed maybe a hole could be tapped in for a grease nipple. Or maybe its safe & durable being sealed....why would L/R go backwards on this with the last vehicles produced knowing all the problems over the models history with the nongreaseable uni
Cheers
Paul
2005 Disco2 td5 auto with bits & pieces